Langdon's Stovebolt Engine Co.

By Bigeasy, April 1, 2012 @ 11:44 pm

Hi Tom,

Thanks for making yourself available for all this information. I have ’52 Chevy 3100 with a 6 volt, 216, 4 speed – granny gear included. I’ve been driving it around for several weeks enjoying it’s charm, but I have to admit I’m yearning for something more. Most of my driving has been 2 lane county highways and in the city. I have the opportunity to purchase a remanufactured 235ci or 1954, 261ci. I’d like to install a newer manual transmission (not sure which is better) – now I’m confused because I’ve found a 292ci that runs and is in good shape – with a manual transmission attached.

With the exception of the 292 these are remanufactured motors – Do you have any recommendations which might be a better engine and fit for the 3100?
Thanks again for all that you do.

By Tom, June 11, 2012 @ 2:14 pm

The 1954 261 would definitely be your easiest and best choice.
The S-10 type T-5 is clearly the best choice for a manual transmission.
Tom

By Doug Stroud, January 14, 2012 @ 5:12 pm

Hello
I have two vehicles. A 1981 chev pickup with a split exhaust manifold on the six cylinder engine. Would this exhaust fit on my 1962 chev 261 engine?
Thanks Doug

By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 12:29 pm

Doug,
NO, not even close.
Tom

By Alex W, January 13, 2012 @ 2:10 am

hi i have a 1976 camaro and i want to swap in the 250 from what i have now..a 350…what can i do for high hp and high torque ratings..should i put boost to it or keep it n/a…i was told by a friend that stock chevy 350 rods and pistons would fit is this true….if not what would…..thank you for your time

By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 12:48 pm

Alex,
NO, the V8 parts will not fit in the 250 inline six engine. They are similar but not interchangeable.
The six needs a lot of help to be on par with the V8 with 100 more cubic inches.
If your budget allows, there is 270 H.P. obtainable without boosting.
Tom

By Jonathan, January 11, 2012 @ 11:25 pm

Mr. Langdon:

I am 17 years old and doing my best to hot rod a 54 chevy 3100, but Im having a few problems with the later model 235 that I just pulled out. The worst is the valvetrain. Before pulling it I was having problems with the push rods bending. At first they were slightly bent so i replaced them and adjusted the roker arms to stock specifications(solid lifters). Then before pulling the engine I took the valve cover (4 screws) off and noticed that 3 more pushrods had bent almost to the point of breaking. Then after the engine was out I pulled the head and noticed that the intake valves were hitting the pistons. After researching the casting numbers I think the head is off a later 261. The casting number and date code is #3836850/date: A 19 1 . Im getting a performance kit to rebuild the engine. Then adding a Saginaw 4 speed 3.54 first gear with a 3.55 rear gear. Any thoughts or tips on that and the problem would be greatly appreciated. Sorry about the length sir, I hope its not too much of a problem.

Thanks,
Jonathan

By Tom, January 12, 2012 @ 3:53 pm

Jonathan,
Any 235 or 261 head will be okay but piston to valve clearance can be a probelm if the camshaft opens too early or the head or block has excessive milling. I suspect inappropriate cam specs.
Tom
By Al Yates, January 13, 2012 @ 8:41 pm

Hi Tom,

just got your catalog #16 oday.. I see I found a place to buy several engine parts.. thanks you so much.

First off I would like to know what engine I have, i think its a 235 GMC engine out of a 1954 1/2 ton truck… but I didn’t buy it new, so may have been changed in those years?
I found what appears to be a casting number on engine block… it was located on left side near the rear… its >> GMC 4 space 2324003
If this is not a casting number could you tell me where its located?….

I will be buying a Multi – carb manifold and hearders… plus some side plates.

I might add that this engine is planning on replacing my 216 engine in my 1938 chevy…. a winter project.
Thanks again for all you help, Al
- By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 12:32 pm
  
  Al,
  Your engine is a 1955 – 1963 270 Cu. In. GMC engine (NOT Chevrolet)
  The engine is longer than your original 216 so it will be a difficult fit.
  Call to discuss limited availability of parts for this engine.
  Tom

By Troy, January 6, 2012 @ 10:53 pm

would a 6 cylinder chev motor fit into a 1998 s10 base model 2.2l ?

By Tom, January 9, 2012 @ 5:13 pm

Troy.
A Chevy 250 inline six will not “practically” fit.
Tom

By Raymond, January 6, 2012 @ 4:08 pm

How much is a 1967 chevy straight 6 worth in running condition? I still have mine out of my 1967 chevy dont need it and would like to sell it.

By Tom, January 9, 2012 @ 5:17 pm

Raymond,
Sorry, I don’t advise on values.
Tom

By Brian, January 5, 2012 @ 12:19 pm

Hey Tom,
I will be looking at a used chevy six this weekend. The owner thinks it is a 250. how do I verify this? He said it does not have an integrated head/intake. Once I purchase a motor, I will be looking to build it up for torque.
Thanks in advance, Brian

By Tom, January 6, 2012 @ 8:04 am

Brian,
A 250 will have it’s fuel pump and distributor toward the front.
Tom

By Ryan, January 3, 2012 @ 12:16 pm

I have a 1954 Chevy 210 delux, with a 235 inline six. The rear axle recently blew out on me and I have found a completely rebuilt 1955 Chevy rear axle for a 235 straight six. Is this ’55 axle compatible with my 54? If not what mods would I need to make to allow the axle to fit?

By Tom, January 3, 2012 @ 1:43 pm

Ryan,
The axle will fit but you will need to change the trans (and driveshaft) to an “open” type design.
Tom

By john, January 2, 2012 @ 1:08 am

hello. i have a 1938 chevy truck that i will be building.looking to install 250 inline with t5 five speed and 9″ rearend. would like some edvice on getting the best mpg i can.truck is going to be a work and parts getter. also will be driven on freeway.suggestion on what carb and ignition.looking for econemy more then performance.thank you

By Tom, January 2, 2012 @ 8:12 pm

John,
Make sure you get the S-10 T-5 with .73 overdrive ratio (’83-’87 V6 2.8L only) and combine it with a 3.50 (approx.) axle ratio.

Use the GM HEI distributor and maybe our Holley Weber small progresive two barrel.
Tom
- By Richard Gaglio, January 2, 2012 @ 9:45 pm
  
  Tom,
  I am currently building (restoring) a 1950 GMC 1/2 ton pick up. Truck came with a smoked 228 and I removed it. I want to use the truck on the freeway, 60 mile an hour tops. want to install a 235 high pres. motor and want to upgrade it with four speed trans, drive shaft open, and new rear end. The 235 will get fenton headers, dual exhaust and thats it. may do carbs but not sure. Any tips on where to get parts and any special tricks to this mod?
  Thanks,
  Richard Gaglio
  Gaglio Construction Services
  - By Tom, January 3, 2012 @ 12:39 pm
    
    Richard,
    The most important key is to use an overdrive transmission.
    I suggest a T-5 from a 1983 – 1987 S-10 truck (2.8 V6 ONLY) combines with a 3.73 rear axle ratio.
    Tom
  - By Jim Cardwell, January 4, 2012 @ 3:03 pm
    
    Richard I have a 235 with a 2004r sitting in my garage built with 90% of the parts from Langdons, less than 1000 miles on it. Shoot me an email, it was built to Toms specs. hayabusa575@yahoo.com
By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 1:15 pm

John,
Gas mileage is in the driveline.
Use a T-5 from a 1983 – 1987 S-10 truck with the 2.8L V8 engine ONLY! (.73 overdrive ratio)
Use a 1983 – 1988 S-10 4WD axle with a 3.42 ratio.
Use a G.M. HEI with a soft spring vacuum advance can (1973691)
Use a Holley Weber progressive two barrel on the stock manifold.
You should get 21 MPG @ 65 MPH.
Tom

By cole, December 30, 2011 @ 10:53 pm

Im looking to ditch the single barrel holley 1904 on my 62 scout 152 and go with your reman 2 bbl carb,what besides the carb do I need from your catalog to make the swap?Thanx

By Tom, January 2, 2012 @ 8:06 pm

Cole,
You will need carb, electric choke, carb adapter and air cleaner. You will need to fabricate the linkage.
Tom

By JosephHarriman, December 28, 2011 @ 5:37 am

Tom,

I recently purchased a 1965 Chevy C10 and have been searching everywhere trying to identify the engine. My block casting number is 473483. GM and 82 are stamped beneath it. F111 TLH is stamped behind distributor. Also J 9 1 CON is also stamped close to the block casting number. I found one site that lists the 473483 is a 250 4.1 litre from 1973 to 1985. This motor does not have an integrated head.

Can you help? Thanks.

By Tom, December 30, 2011 @ 2:38 pm

Joseph,
Yes, the 1975 – 1985 250 (4.1L) is essentially identical to your 1965 230 (unless it’s a 292: – Fuel pump in the middle)
Virtually all the parts are interchangeable except the crank, rods and pistons.
Be sure to up-grade to the newer G.M. HEI distributor. (Requires straight 12 volts no resistor)
Tom

By Max, December 24, 2011 @ 7:03 am

Hi I’m max I have a 292 and a170 both have the 700r4 transmission the 292 is in a Chevy s10 and the 170 belongs to an 89 Chevy Camaro I was wondering if I can swap the engine and transmission from the truck to the camaro

By Tom, December 27, 2011 @ 4:27 pm

Max,
NO, the 292 is too tall for the Camaro hood.
Tom

By Drew, December 23, 2011 @ 3:37 pm

Tom,

I have a 1954 chevy 3100 pickup with a inline six & 3 speed transmission. I want to install a 194 in it but use the same 1954 transmission. What type of adapter do I need?

Thanks,

Drew

By Tom, December 25, 2011 @ 2:39 pm

Drew,
If you use the 194 bellhousing you will not need an adapter.

I do not recommend this conversiondue to much fabrication, interference, revised mounting and reduced performance.
Tom

By omegadenether, December 21, 2011 @ 3:52 pm

Hey Tom,
I am planning on using an Offy 4 Barrel Intake and Holley 390cfm on a 1962 Chevy II. I was planning on getting your headers and heat plate. Will this all fit properly?

By Tom, December 22, 2011 @ 3:22 pm

Yes, these parts would make a good combination and will all work together in your 1962 Chevy II.
Tom

By john huerta, December 19, 2011 @ 2:55 am

going to build a 38 chevy truck. want to make the 38 an every day driver.going with 250 inline 6 with t5.my question is what differential,carb,and other things can i use to get the best gas mileage.and what is a realistic mpg i can expect .want to use for work and swap meet runs.

By Carl, December 13, 2011 @ 12:45 pm

My dad has a 67 GMC pickup that he bought new. It is a 292 cu. in. 6 cylinder one barrel carburator. He wants to change out the oil bath air cleaner to a dry one. Can this be done?

By Tom, December 20, 2011 @ 2:17 pm

Carl,
Yes, the original was a paper element type.
The “OIL BATH” was optional.
Tom

By Mauro, December 12, 2011 @ 12:56 pm

Hi Tom, I have a G10 1969 108 van with a 250 and 3 on the tree that was considering converting into a 4 or 5 speed manual trans, what would you suggest?
I just picked up another 250 engine that I’m thinking about building so I can swap it without down time, this will be my van daily driver to go with the recommended trans so reliability and good mpg is required , been reading your tips and since I’m not 100 sure about cam type I’d like to play with the lump kit, match and clean the ports, offy intake with holly 350 cfm and your dual cast iron exhaust headers, valve size, cam timing/rocker (rollers) ratio and recommended compression ratio are still a question mark in my head.
I would really love to hear your opinion.
Thanks!!

By Tom, December 20, 2011 @ 2:12 pm

Mauro,
The 1983 to 1987 2.8L V6 S-10 type T-5 should be a big upgrade, but I don’t think the Offy four barrel will fit inside your “doghouse”.
Headers would be OK.
Tom

By scooted45, December 9, 2011 @ 9:55 pm

Hi tom new to the site, Im looking at the 8008 carb, 4002 air cleaner, 1015 adapter and 8888 electric choke- Will this set up directly “BOLT ON” to my chevy II 194/powerglide? Im wondering if I would have to change the throttle linkage/ trans linkage to convert from a stock rochester BV 1 barrel.

Thanks scott

By Tom, December 10, 2011 @ 2:34 pm

Scott,
A likage to reverse throttle opening direction will also be required and a lower profile air cleaner to achieve hood clearance. Call to discuss and order.
Tom

By Bruce, December 7, 2011 @ 6:53 pm

What is the breakdown on putting power brakes in my ’53 Chevy Tin Woody wagon. It now has a 235 babbited w/3
speed trans. CPP say’s that they have one but Patrick’s suggests using one from Goodman, any imput would be appreciated. I would eventually like to run a T-5 trans in her or would a 2004R be a better fit !

By Tom, December 8, 2011 @ 2:01 pm

Bruce,
Sorry, we don’t deal with any brake questions.
The T-5 is a stick shift, the 200 4R is an automatic. I recommend you look into what you like and can afford.
Tom

By Blake, December 6, 2011 @ 1:27 pm

Tom,
I recently picked a 62 235 to put into my 50 Fleetline. Motor has 85k orig miles & never had any work done internally. Do you think I need to go through it or install as is? I am going to change freeze plugs, all gaskets, fuel & water pumps, & clean out oil pan while it’s out. I would like to run dual exhaust & dual carb setup as well. But was told adapting a 2bbl carb on these is better? Not a hot rod, just like how it looks. I’ve heard the carter carb is better than the roch? Also I will run an adapter plate with a 200r4 & open drive. From your previous post, I need a 373 or 410 gears. Also will run your HEI distributor.
I guess what I’m wanting to ask, is what do you suggest for this motor? Like I said, not building a rod, just want to be able to drive it with minimal issues. I haven’t had a lot of luck with my previous sixes, but hopefully this one will restore my faith in them!
Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom & knowledge with me!
Blake

By Tom, December 8, 2011 @ 1:50 pm

Blake,
Sounds like a good combination for your 1950 Fleetline.
I would recommend a dual carb heated inlet manifold with two progressive Carter Weber two barrels.
Tom

By Jesse, November 20, 2011 @ 10:15 pm

Hello Mr. Langdon I have a ’54 210. The flywheel has a few bad teeth and needs replaced. The car has been converted to 12v but still uses the 6v starter. I understand that the 12v starter uses a different tooth count on the ring gear so since the ring gear needs replaced I figured now would be time to change the starter too. Can I use the more readily available ’55 and later flywheel and starter or do I have to also changed the clutch. Thank You in advance.

By Tom, November 22, 2011 @ 4:54 pm

Jesse,
You can just knock the ring gear off, (clean it and the flywheel where it fits) and flip it over to get “NEW” teeth.
Also rotate it 60 degrees to move the three contact areas to a new location.
(On a six cylinder engine, the flywheel stops in only three areas 99% of the time)
Tom

By Tim, November 20, 2011 @ 7:40 pm

Tom,
I will be swapping a 250 from a 71-72 C10 into a 78 Nova. I will need to swap the pan and maybe the pick-up(I’ll know once I look at the two, think they are different). Is there any baffling, scrapper, etc I should buy or make while its apart. I have one of the baffles for a 350 that bolt under the oil pump. Not sure if it can be modified or if I need something different, or a waste of $ and effort all together. Looking for the cheap HP additions. It will have a Offy 4bbl intake, 390 holley and dual exh. 3.42 gears and a 200r4 in the future.

By Tom, November 22, 2011 @ 4:48 pm

Tim,
I do not think you will need to change the oil pan or any oil pan baffling. Be sure to use the G.M. HEI distributer and purchase our water heat plate for the Offy intake manifold.
I would prefer the 3.73 or 4.10 gears with the 200 4R transmission but the 3.42 is OK to start with.
Tom

By Chad, November 17, 2011 @ 5:21 pm

I bought a 57 235 truck motor for my 54 chevy 210. I made custom motor mounts, and modified the water pump. All was well until i put my flywheel and clutch on. Clutch housing is rubbing slightly on the bell housing (at the top, and only on the high spots of the clutch housing), is the back of the engine and end of crank different to cause this? or have i done something wrong.

By Tom, November 21, 2011 @ 4:32 pm

Chad,
the 1957 235 clutch (pressure plate) is bigger than the 1954 235 passenger car clutch.
Use the smaller clutch.
Tom

By Zachary McMillian, November 16, 2011 @ 8:24 pm

I was wondering the length, width, and height of a 230 head? Thank you for your time.

By Tom, November 17, 2011 @ 2:09 pm

What engine, Plymouth flathead or Chevy O.H.V.?
Tom

By trivejb, November 16, 2011 @ 2:20 pm

I have a 292 (actually 2), to replace the 250 in my restored 1968 C30. One is a 1978 (F68, 377129 June,6-1978) and the other a 1970 (B190 (Feb,19-1970?) C# 3921970). The 1970 has a head that appears to be a later model (J29, 3962084 I can’t find a identification reference) as it has the the smog ports that have been plugged. Could the late model head be an advantage or not? In rebuilding a engine my main objective is low end power as I doubt that it will ever see over 3500RPM ??. Just want to take advantage of the torque of this engine. What type of intake/carburetor, exhaust, cam would best serve my purpose? Maybe just leave stock? Both have HEI distributors.

Thanks, Jerry

By Tom, November 17, 2011 @ 2:19 pm

Jerry,
If the head has 5/8″ hex tapered seat spark plugs, it will have hard exhaust seats. This would be the advantage.
For best torque, use the stock camshaft, a small 4 BBL and our dual exhaust.
Tom

By Jordan Fox, November 16, 2011 @ 9:59 am

Hi Tom. I have a 1936 R30 Series RA panel truck and has a straight 6 stovebolt in it. However I believe the head is cracked and I am searching for a new motor for it and was wondering what other straight 6 motors would fit in it. I have found a straight 6 with a 3 speed from a 50′s chevy but wasn’t sure if it would bolt up to the original motor mounts.

Thanks,
Jordan

By Tom, November 17, 2011 @ 2:13 pm

Jordan,
The Chevy SIX (1929 – 1936) was a different engine in all respects compared to the 1937 – 1962 216 and 235.
Call to discuss your options.
Tom

By Raymond, November 14, 2011 @ 7:40 pm

I have a 1966 Chevy truck with a 230 6 cylinder engine. I have no fire and have replaced the coil. Still have no fire. Any suggestions? Could it be a fuseable link?

By Tom, November 15, 2011 @ 2:14 pm

Hard question the deal with over the internet. For diagnosis, start with a volt meter at the coil to see if you have power.
Did you replace the condenser? Are the points opening? Is the distributor turning when the engine is cranking?
Good luck,
Tom

By Phillip, November 14, 2011 @ 11:27 am

Hi Tom, I have a 1966 chevelle with a 230 l6, which aftermarket carburetors will bolt up with no modifications?

By Tom, November 15, 2011 @ 2:06 pm

Phillip,
All the one barrels currently available are very poor quality.
Tom

By Jacob, November 14, 2011 @ 11:08 am

Hey Tom,
I have a 1988 Chevy S10 with a 2.8 liter V6. Im wanting to put a 283′ V8 engine block into the S10. the transmission is a TH 700r4 4 speed automatic overdrive. will it be able to bolt up to the 283?

By Tom, November 15, 2011 @ 2:04 pm

Jacob,
Sorry we do not deal with V8 engines.
Your 2.8L, 700 R4 trans has a different bolt pattern than a 283 Chevy V8.
Tom

By DJ Durant, November 14, 2011 @ 10:44 am

Tom, I have recently came into an OD tranny out of a 61′ Bel Air, complete, and have intentions of using it in my 64′ C-10. Anything I should do with the tranny while I have it out before the install to avoid issues later down the road, besides general cleaning and checking of the governor and solenoid?
Thanks

By Tom, November 15, 2011 @ 2:00 pm

D.J.
Yes, you should take off the overdrive unit and closely inspect the planetary unit. The planet gear needle rollers are often failed.
Tom

By edward, November 13, 2011 @ 7:43 pm

hi my name is ed i have a 52 chevy deluex with a 217 stright6 i have a verry bad oil leak. it looks like its coming from the flywheel some say its better to swap my engin to a 226 what do you think

By Tom, November 14, 2011 @ 3:17 pm

Ed,
Both the 216 and the 235 have the same design rear main seal.
Tom
- By edward, December 24, 2011 @ 5:30 pm
  
  hi tom i have a52 chevy deluex 216 i will like to swap it out with a 235 will everything match up ? trans ect….
  - By Tom, December 27, 2011 @ 4:20 pm
    
    Edward,
    The “235″ was made in FIVE different versions. Only the 1953 Powerglide and 1954 235 are a direct bolt in. Others may require mounts and or water pump revisions.
    Tom

By Leo, November 13, 2011 @ 9:24 am

Hy Mr. Langdon, I have a 1980 Chevrolet truck, with 6L 4.1 (250) engine, I`m from Argentina.
For many years chevrolet, did not have representation in my country, without replacements I saw me obliged to annul the system of environmental protection. I have leak of oil by the sideplate, due to the annulment of some of these components?
Thanks for your help

By Tom, November 13, 2011 @ 3:51 pm

Leo,
No, I do not think that your modifications caused the oil leak.
Tom

By Shawn, November 11, 2011 @ 3:04 pm

I have a 1962 235 that was just rebuilt. Everything was cleaned properly but I’m not getting any oil to the rockers. My pressure light isn’t on so I believe I’m getting proper pressure, the head gasket was right and didn’t cover the outlet to the rocker arm assembly, and I believe all 6 bolts for the rocker arm assembly were the exact same so don’t think there’s supposed to be a whole or slot in them. Any ideas why there isn’t any oil getting to the rockers? Thanks, Shawn

By Tom, November 14, 2011 @ 3:15 pm

Shawn,
You should use a drill motor and a pressure gauge to diagnose your issue.
First remove the rocker arm assembly and check to see if the oil is getting there.
Tom

By Tye, November 11, 2011 @ 3:00 pm

So will dual carter webbers be enough to run a 261 bored 60 over with a 3/4 cam, ported and polished head or will it not be enough once the engine hits lets say around 4500-5000 rpm-not that it would be there often I just wanna make sure it wont get asthmatic. Plus what are the CFM ratings of these carters at 3 hg and whats the conversion factor to 4 barrel at 1.5 hg from 3.0 hg ratings? Thanks in advance Tom

By Tom, November 14, 2011 @ 3:07 pm

Tom,
The dual Carter Weber carbs will be adequate for 5000 RPM but not 6000 RPM.
I have a pair on my 250 and it is good to 5500 RPM.
Two Carter Weber’s would be equivalent to a 350 CFM 4 BBL
(There are no available CFM ratings on these carbs)
Tom

By Dan, November 11, 2011 @ 11:55 am

Hey Tom,
I just got my newly rebuilt 235 back from the engine shop ($2000.00 OUCH!)
It is now bored +.030 with hardened valve seats and a solid cam/lifters.
I am planning on running an Offy dual carb intake and split exhaust on it.
Any ideas as to carb configuration for this ? Split Exhaust ?
She aint no hot rod ! It’s going back in the 1960 Biscayne it came out of.
With the new motor and interior work yet to be done I’m going to have about 4 grand more in it than it will ever be worth to someone else but to hand it over to my grandson in time will be priceless to me!
Thank you.
Dan Myshrall
Custodian of a small piece of automotive history.

By Tom, November 14, 2011 @ 2:57 pm

Dan,
The dual carb system will have significant issues with hood clearance.
We need to talk, call to discuss.
You also should choose the Williams cast iron headers to avoid interference with the Offy intake manifold.
Tom
By Tom, November 14, 2011 @ 2:57 pm

Dan,
The dual carb system will have significant issues with hood clearance.
We need to talk, call to discuss.
You also should choose the Williams cast iron headers to avoid interference with the Offy intake manifold.
Tom

By Jay, November 10, 2011 @ 8:01 pm

Hi Tom,

I have a 1959 Chevy Apache Truck with a 235 engine. The transmission is a 4 speed with granny first gear. Somewhere down the line the previous owner upgraded the rear-end. If I wanted to change out the transmission what will work and what do you recommend? Thanks

By Tom, November 14, 2011 @ 2:51 pm

Jay,
What axle ratio is NOW in your truck?
Tom

By aintdeadyet86, November 8, 2011 @ 2:04 pm

Hi, i have searched many threads and there are not a lot of clear answers. i have read that an 80s S10 transmission will bolt up nicely to a 1957 stovebolt 235 with some minor adjustments. some say a t5 will work just right. i can get my hands on an 85 s10 transmission with an external clutch 4spd. will it work and fit like a T5 or will this turn into a giant mess? thanks.

i do know i will need to get a clutch pad of the right diameter and spline count that will work well with a 1957 pressure plate. and the input shaft is longer then the original trans and will need proper spacing.

By Tom, November 9, 2011 @ 2:19 pm

I do not totally understand your question but you only want a T-5 5 speed from a 1983 – 1987 S-10 with a V6 engine.
This will bolt up to the 1957 bell housing with minimal modifications.
We can supply a proper trans.
Call to discuss.
Tom
- By Don Bustillos, November 15, 2011 @ 12:03 am
  
  Tom,
  
  You mentined in a reply that you can supply a proper T-5 speed to backup a 235. Can you provide more info?
  
  Don
  - By Tom, November 15, 2011 @ 2:19 pm
    
    Don,
    Yes, but there are several options for your 235.
    Call to discuss.
    Tom

By sliding, November 7, 2011 @ 8:09 pm

I have a 71 Chevy c10. It had a 305 in it. I have a 78 250 to put in the 71. I have a three speed trans. The issue is the motor mounts. I need the right motor mounts. The section that bolts to the block of the 250. It appears that there are three separate parts to this set up. Can you share any thoughts, knowledge on this. Do you know where a set of motor mounts might be available? Thank You, Sliding

By Tom, November 8, 2011 @ 2:37 pm

I also have a 1971 C-10.
I will look and see if I have an extra pair of mounts.
Tom

By Richard, November 4, 2011 @ 5:28 pm

I have a 1958 235 the fuel pump is leaking real bad looks like a cracked housing. I can’t find a rebuild kit anywhere. Can i go with an electric pump and leave the original for it’s vacumn for the wipers. or could I get the vacumn elsewhere on the engine for the wipers and use a fuel pump that doesnt have the vac option?

By Tom, November 7, 2011 @ 2:23 pm

Richard,
You need the pump to provide vacuum when you are on a hill.
Tom
- By Jim, December 16, 2011 @ 12:04 pm
  
  I have a ’56 chevy 6-cyl. just got it and the fuel pump looks shot. something strange though, it doesnt have a vacuum pump attached, and the wiper motor has no vacuum lines attached (it is vacuum drive). my book shows that the pump is probably the right one for the car. my question then is, where did the vacuum come from to drive the wiper motor? is there a stand alone vacuum pump on these cars that I havent spotted yet?
  
  thanks for your help..
  
  Jim
  - By Tom, December 20, 2011 @ 2:32 pm
    
    Jim,
    The vacuum supply is from your engines intake manifold.
    Tom

By george, November 3, 2011 @ 9:34 pm

I have a 74 250 where is the port for a oil pressure gauge?
Thanks, George

By Tom, November 7, 2011 @ 2:15 pm

George,
On the distributor side of the block, below the side cover inline with the dipstick.
Tom
By Sliding, November 14, 2011 @ 10:38 pm

That port took to leaking on me one time, on the drive home from work, in Indy Rush hour……No Fun. Dang that truck was a hassle, but I got to love it. ’78.

By Wes, November 3, 2011 @ 10:03 am

Tom,
I have this motor I bought for 300 dollars. Can you tell me a good place to post for sale? I would like to get 300. Thanks in advance for your help!

Block: 328575
Head: 3827763, GM5, B133, 763

Wes from Charlotte, NC

By Tom, November 3, 2011 @ 2:59 pm

Wes,
It is a 1968 – 1984 250 block and the head is a 1966 – 1976 250.
You can join Inliners International and place a free ad.
Tom
http://www.inliners.org/

By Richard, November 2, 2011 @ 10:43 pm

I have a 58 Delray with a 235 3 spd. What other years of 3 spd will work? Will a 69 Truck 3 spd work or do truck trannies have a granny first gear. Also what other trans will work in my car. I heard 5 spds from s-10s will bolt in?

By Tom, November 3, 2011 @ 2:52 pm

Richard,
A wide variety of 3, 4 and 5 speeds will bolt up to your 1958 bell housing because of common Chevy bolt pattern.
Yes, the S-10 5 speed will bolt up with minimal modifications to the transmission and driveshaft.
Tom

By CHAD, October 31, 2011 @ 3:07 pm

What carbs are on the 64-65 yellow Chevelle in the gallery? It has a 230-250 in it. Thanks

By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 5:10 pm

They are Carter YF one barrel carbs.
Tom

By Jon, October 29, 2011 @ 6:11 pm

Hey Tom:

Do you know what a 1967-69 Camaro with 250 CI 6 and 3 speed manual would do 0-60?

Also, roughly much horespower would be needed to get a 250 CI 6 with a TH350 trans ans 3.08 rear to 60 in about 9 seconds flat?

By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 8:31 am

Sorry, I can’t help.
Tom
By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 8:43 am

Jon,
Sorry, I can’t help.
Tom
By David Anderson, October 31, 2011 @ 1:23 pm

I’m putting a 65′ 230 inline 6 in my 81 Chevy swb. I have a 700r4 with Corvette servos that i want to put behind it. Do you know if a 350ci flywheel will work
- By Tom, November 1, 2011 @ 2:09 pm
  
  David,
  Yes, I think the flywheel will work.
  Tom

By Jean rivera, October 29, 2011 @ 5:16 am

Hi tom, I have a 1956 chevy 3100 235 i6.. And a.three speed manual tranny. A buddy is going to give me a 5 speed manual from a camaro 80′ and has a 6 cyltoo.. Would it work and help the engine? Thankyou in advance

By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 8:36 am

Jean,
Ye, the Camaro 5 speed will bolt up to your ’56 pick-up bell housing, but the shifter will not clear your bench seat. You need a “S-10″ type tail housing. I can supply.
Tom
By Tom, October 31, 2011 @ 8:41 am

Jean,
Yes, the Camaro 5 speed will bolt up to your ’56 pick up bellhousing, but the shifter will not clear your bench seat. You need an “S-10″ type tailhousing. I can supply.
Tom

By sam, October 26, 2011 @ 10:03 pm

I have a 1966 chev with a 292 all stock. Would the weber 2bbl increase power? Is the adapter, carb, and ele choke all I would need to install and will the linkage on my truck work for that carb? Also, If I install the stovebolt headers will the dual exhast have room to make it by the clutch likage?

By Dorian, October 25, 2011 @ 12:29 am

Tom,

I’m new to the inline 6 community. I just brought a 77 Nova, with 86k on it. My question is what is the most performance wise I can get out of the stock engine? I want to keep the heart of this car original as possible. I want to be able to go into the 300 hp range if possible. Or even higher if it can be done?

By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:01 pm

Dorian,
200 HP is easy, 250 is expensive, 300 is not street able.
Tom
By Tom, November 1, 2011 @ 5:02 pm

Dorian,
The practical limit for a street driven 250 is about 260 H.P.
This assumes extensive cylinder head rework, cam, four barrel and headers.
Tom

By 55tahoe, October 21, 2011 @ 5:54 pm

Tom do you or anyone else know if there are brackets to mount a newer power steering punp and altinator to a 235, I have seen some pics when people had them on the drivers side of the motor.

By Tom, October 24, 2011 @ 1:50 pm

Contact Buffalo Enterprises at 360-652-7684
Tom

By travelordon, October 21, 2011 @ 11:46 am

Is there any way a T5 out of a 1997 S-10 can bolt to a 261.

By Tom, October 22, 2011 @ 3:05 pm

I believe this trans is a Getrag 5 speed with integral bellhousing (not a T-5).
- By Don, October 23, 2011 @ 12:15 pm
  
  My other option is to put 261 to my existing 41 tranny and rear. Can the transmission take the extra power or can the gears be upgraded? Also what is good RPM to be running this motor?
  - By Tom, October 24, 2011 @ 1:55 pm
    
    Don,
    The 261 is a good choice but the transmission is too weak for it.
    You need an upgraded trans and rear axle.
    Tom

By Isaiah Ward, October 17, 2011 @ 5:48 pm

Hello good sir!

I have been lurking around your website for a few years, and I must say im very impressed. I know your time is very valuable so I will do my best not to waste it, however, I have a rather silly question for you.

I run a stock 292 in my ’69 truck with a rochester monojet carb, stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and a pertronix ignition. My silly question is, do you recommend I hook my vacuum advance to the ported vacuum source, or should I hook up to the manifold vacuum source? thank you in advance.
-Isaiah

By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:12 pm

Isaiah,
On a stock engine, hook it up ported.
Tom
- By Pat, January 9, 2012 @ 10:32 pm
  
  Tom,
  Have a 78 chevy c 10, 250, with rochester monojet, stock manifold automatic trans. Do I hook it up ported or constant vacum. where is the best place to put the vacume hose on the carb or where ever. Does it need a fuel pressure regulator with the aftermarket fuel pump?
  Have a complete overhaul, on engine, cleaned carb. with new float etc., new plug wires and plugs and still have a miss and I can smell whatever brand of gas that it is burning. What do you suggest . The engine missed before the overhaul just like it does now.
  Thanks Pat
  - By Tom, January 18, 2012 @ 1:07 pm
    
    Pat,
    Hook up the vacuum advance to the carb per the shop manual.
    I suggest you check for a vacuum leak between the manifold and the head.
    This is a COMMON problem!
    Tom

By Richard, October 14, 2011 @ 9:41 am

I have a Stock 235 in my 58 Chevy with the stock 1bbl. I recently put a carb kit in it and now have a new problem. I must prime the carb with a capfull of gas to start it. Once it starts it can be shut off and started normally. The next day i have to repeat the priming process. Also when i prime it gas comes out through the brass bushing on the shaft. Once it is running there are no leaks. Also the needle screw is backed almost all the way out so that it runs right.

By Tom, October 17, 2011 @ 5:11 pm

Richard,
It sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere.
Tom
By mark hathaway, October 19, 2011 @ 10:17 pm

1950 chevy stock screw right below vent tube must have fallen out oil leaking another screw right above fule pump loose and leaking i removes screw cranked car and heard metallic sound breafly nothing now is sone type of baffle now loose or in the oil pan
- By Tom, October 21, 2011 @ 1:30 pm
  
  Mark,
  Yes, it is the road draft tube baffle.
  It is a 2″ x 3″ sheet metal baffle.
  You need to remove the oil pan and re-install it.
  Tom
  - By mark hathaway, October 22, 2011 @ 6:15 pm
    
    ok got oilpan off baffle waded up like a ball of tinfoil didnt look like any damage done where can i get one or can i drive without one
    - By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:09 pm
      
      Mark,
      You should make one.
      Tom
    - By Derek, November 17, 2011 @ 6:56 pm
      
      i got a few baffles for 216, 235, 261. contact me at teamxmotocross@bellsouth.net
By Richard, November 2, 2011 @ 10:46 pm

I had some loose screws in the carb and I could hear the vac sucking through. Thank you for the advice it was dead right on!
- By Tom, November 3, 2011 @ 2:54 pm
  
  Great!

By Austin, October 11, 2011 @ 11:28 pm

hi tom
i have a streight 6 i had got off a friend…..but im not sure what size it is. on the block it says 3921968. the truck it came out of was a chevy c20 2wd he said it was a camper special to. i know the second half of that number is the year but as far as i know chevy didnt make a streight 392? i was told maybe a misprint but i still dont know the size. any help? please?

By Tom, October 13, 2011 @ 1:26 pm

Austin,
Your 3921968 block was used from 1964 – 1976 and could be either a 230 or a 250.
Tom

By Ben, October 10, 2011 @ 10:34 am

Hey Tom i got a question reguarding ignition timing on my 250 chevy. first i’ll tell you what i have. 1977 250 bored .060 over, stock style pistons. .060 milled off of head with 1.84 intake and 1.6 exhaust valves. the block has been zero decked, and its got the clifford 264 cam installed. its got the offenhauser intake with a holley 390 jetted per cliffords recomendations and a stock type exhaust manifold out of a gleaner combine with a 2.5 inch exhaust outlet. larry at clifford says i need to run a mallory unilite distributor in order to harness all the power, he says my stock hei with a msd coil wont cut it. is this true? how should i go about timing the engine? thanks

By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:40 pm

Ben,
The GM HEI is just fine (the best) for your 250.
Set timing at 12 degrees BTDC.
Tom

By Tim Brobst, October 9, 2011 @ 4:34 am

Hi Tom:

I am building a pro touring ’52 chevy 3100 and trying to stay 50′s/60′s period hot-rod correct (at least visually). It currently has a 216 c.u. I6 and been thinking about upgrading the I6 to something bigger. I believe i want the 261 c.u. I6 due to the drop in ability. It also is currently a 3 on the tree factory tranny. I am interested in the T-5 switch over but I cant seem to locate the info i read at one time on this site. my questions are…. 1) can you email me with the info or respond here? ( I will watch for your reply). 2) Would the dual webbers you have here preform alot better than dual single barrel carbs in a pro touring enviorment along with the cast iron headers/dual exhaust

By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 4:10 pm

Tim,
Call to discuss the T-5 conversion.
Our dual Carter Weber’s are an A+ vs. the Rochester one barrels at a D.
the cast iron Fenton’s or Williams are definitely the best choice.
Tom

By 1967 CHEVELLE DAN, October 7, 2011 @ 10:52 pm

Hey Tom,
i have a question.i have a 250 in my 67 chevelle i switch from points ing.to HEI DIS. do i need to use
different sparkplugs than stock cause of the swap. if so how do i get the ac delco plug #
dan

By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 4:06 pm

Dan,
I recommend an extended tip high gap spark plug such as a SC 44XLSX (.060 gap)
We can supply a champion equivalent.
Tom

By Angel, October 3, 2011 @ 4:05 am

Hello Tom,

I have a 250 on a 1969 C10, Just a few days ago I noticed a loud exhaust leak coming from the drivers side of the engine. I am certain it is not the exhaust manifold but more certain that it’s coming from the head gasket ? Is there something I should be aware of? and Is this possible considering I just had the engine rebuild ? Is it a simple replacement? Thanks a lot in advance.

By Tom, October 3, 2011 @ 1:58 pm

Sorry, I can’t diagnose via E-mail.
Perhaps your rebuilder did not torque the head bolts.
Tom

By kevin, September 28, 2011 @ 5:11 pm

I bought a a 60 willys 4×4 pick up it came with 2 motors a 230 and a 250. The question is ,how and can I pull a single axle camper behind and some times pull my car trailer with my wrangler with a 6cyl? The 250 is supose to be good the 230 he didnt know.

By John, October 12, 2011 @ 9:51 pm

A bit confused here……you tell of a Willy’s truck…then ask about how a wrangler can pull ? The wrangler will pull a small one axle camper just fine. The Willy’s 230 engine is just a problem waiting to happen at big money. Hard to find parts for blah…blah….blah. The six chevy will be a good torquey engine to use and parts are falling out of the sky for it. ( especially the 4 speed ones )
- By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:37 pm
  
  O.K.

By steve bruzek, September 27, 2011 @ 10:21 pm

Hi Tom,

I have a 1965 Chevy C-10 pickup with a 230 6 cy. and 3 speed. I’d like to make it more drivable on the hwy and improve the MPG, Any overall suggestions?? 4 or5 speed trans, different rear end, switch to the ‘eco’ carb that was an original option, taller/quieter tires. I’m up for most anything that’s simple and relatively low cost. Thanx

P.S. I noitce there are very few questions on your site about the 230 engine. Was it rare or just not many left in trucks on the road today??

By John, October 12, 2011 @ 10:12 pm

The 230 is a shorter stroke engine than the 250 -292. It was mostly used in cars like the chevy ll/ nova of the same era. My opinion of ” highway mileage” is to travel at 50 plus mph for more than 5 miles. If this fits your driving style…..then you will benefit from the 5 speed swap from most any late model chevy truck ( driveshaft mods are likely…not very expensive ). With a 5 speed and rear gears around 3.23 you should garner 20 mpg or more depending on your driving style. I have had good results from using an adapter to use a chevy 2 bbl carb in both the mpg’s and power output as well.

Both 3 and 4 speed transmissions give a one to one ratio in the highest gear they have. ( one engine rotation to one driveshaft rotation ) …so going from a 3 speed to a 4 speed will not give you any gain other than a new lower first gear for pulling stuff. The 700r4 automatic also works well when the lock-up convertor is made to operate via a switch to give reasonable gains in BOTH low end pulling power AND highway mpg’s. Something to ponder…..power to weight ratio. A 283 v-8 will pull along with less effort then your 230….with only 53 cubic inches more, 40 more horses and more torque. Think of the 283 AND the 5 speed now. HHHHMMMM …….
- By Tom, October 28, 2011 @ 3:35 pm
  
  Yep!
  Now 6 speeds are the normal with 8 speeds on the way!
  Tom

By Scott, September 23, 2011 @ 9:15 pm

Tom,
I just bought your weber kit and put it on my IH SD-220. Everything fit great didn’t need the linkage kit just had to bend up thread and drill a piece of 3/16 rod and it fit like it should have came that way. The only problem I am having is that it’s blowing a lot of smoke. I know I need to change the jets. I live at 5000 feet and higher what size would you suggest I start at and do you sell a jet kit cus I can’t find one locally.
Thanks, Scott

By Scott, September 23, 2011 @ 9:58 pm

Also what does the electric choke get hooked up to if the old one was a manual choke.

By David Olivo, September 20, 2011 @ 8:09 am

Tom,
I found a 1961 chevy truck motor. The owner gave me the casting no. 3769716. I have a 1952 Chevy and want to know if this motor will work.
Thanks,
Dave

By Red, September 18, 2011 @ 2:37 pm

Tom, I bought a 1962 Nova that the prev owner stuffed a 327 into & want to return it to the i6 configuration. I have never worked with an i6, fire breathing, tire shredding v8′s are what I use to do. Now I want to build an i6 and have a few questions.

1-will I have hood clearance problems with the 292?
2-will the 292 bolt up to my 700r4 trans?
3-do I have enough fan to firewall clearance for a 292.

If I “can” do this swap I’ll be back with more questions in the future. Like your website. Lots of good info.

Thanks – Red

By Tom, September 19, 2011 @ 3:03 pm

1- YES, You will have hood clearance problems.
2- YES, the 292 will bolt up to a 700 R4
3- NO, there is NOT enough firewall clearance
Also the 292 oil pan wont fit because the 62 NOVA requires a unique center sump oil pan
Tom

By mike, September 16, 2011 @ 9:29 pm

I have a1963 nova with a stock 194with a rochesterbc 1 barel. wanted to know if your 1-2barel adapter and rebuilt holey 2barel would work on my stock manifold.also wanted to know the diameter of your gm hei distributer and if any other parts are needed to convert to electronic ignition

By Tom, September 17, 2011 @ 10:20 pm

Mike,
1. The Holley Weber will work well on your 194 Nova but hood clearance may be a problem. Call to discuss (586-739-9601)
2. The GM HEI has a 5″ dia cap. Our Mini ” Space Saver” is 3 1/2″ Dia. Both will fit your engine.

Tom

By john, September 13, 2011 @ 8:42 pm

Hi i have a 1981 chevy full size with a 250 inline 6 cyl a hole had came in the catlytic converter im guessing that is what it is there is two mufflers it seems but it is the first muffler comming off the engine it now has a small hole about the size of a nickle would this cause it not to idle and cause the engine to stall .????????????????????? if so can i put a straight pipe in its place????????? thank you…

By Tom, September 26, 2011 @ 4:05 pm

John,
Sorry, I can’t help.
om

By Zak, September 12, 2011 @ 1:21 am

hi tom my name is zak im 17 and dont have much money. i have a 1977 gmc swb truck with a 250ci and a 3 on the tree that will do about 65-70 mph down a long hill. what is the most cost affective way to get a little more get up and go so i can do the speed limit and not get run over.

By Tom, September 26, 2011 @ 4:02 pm

Zak,
You may have the integral head type 250 engine which had many troubles especially at high mileage.
Some owners convert to the engine to the original style head so they can add a four barrel and dual exhaust.
If you don’t know what type of engine you have, send me a picture of the carb side of the engine.
Tom

By Kevin, September 11, 2011 @ 12:48 am

Hi Tom,

Have a 64 kurbside step van with a 292 and 4 speed manual. Its a beast to drive and wondered what it would take to put a auto trans in it. What type of tranny will fit and how/where would i put in the shifter? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Kevin

By Tom, September 12, 2011 @ 1:53 pm

Kevin,
Sorry, I can’t help.
Tom
By luc, September 28, 2011 @ 7:54 pm

Kevin,pretty much any trans will fit it. I took mine out of an 80 GMC C25 camper special with a TH400. I put a 700R4 behind it. I custom made a T.V. cable bracket out of a throttle cable bracket myself, but find a 230/250/292 with a TH350 and it will have the right bracket and will mount to the engine. My flexplate wouldn’t work with the 700 as the converter bolt mounts were different, but I put a 350 flexplate on it and drilled out the crank bolts and center pin hole and it bolted right on. You will need an auto trans radiator for cooling purposes .Forget the correct drive shaft length, and hooking up the lockup torque converter. You’ll burn it up quick if you don’t. 3 wires, the 2 next to each other,hook together and run a 12v power via a toggle switch to those a ground the back wire on the plug to the frame. I’ve don’t it that way in this and another car I adapted a 700 into and the car has run it with 30,000 miles behind a moderate 400 SBC and runs good. It shouldn’t be that hard for you. I took the 292 out of an 80 c25,700 out of an 86 burban and dumped them into my 78 that had a 350/th350 combo. Yours is already half way there with the engine residing there already. Of course 3 speeds will go in as well, th400 is vacuum operated and th350 is t.v. cable operated. 200-4R is basically the same way as the 700 give/take the lockup converter plug wire orientation.
- By Tom, October 3, 2011 @ 2:51 pm
  
  This sounds good to me.
  Tom

By Kerry, September 8, 2011 @ 10:17 am

Tom,
Spoke to you a while back about putting Pertronix or HEI in my 63 Chevy 230 stick Bel Air. Put the Pertronix in for now because I had it on the shelf but I do plan to swap it out with HEI as soon as I sell off some spare parts and get the bread for it.
A friend gave me a very good used Holley/Weber carb from a 77 Mustang. Was thinking of putting this on in place of the Rochester and putting a 292 exhaust manifold in place of the 230 exhaust. Would this improve things or would it be a waste of time??? I am trying to keep this car somewhat stock appearing as it is all original with 28,000 on the clock.

By Tom, September 9, 2011 @ 1:50 pm

Kerry,
The Holly Weber is a great carb BUT may result in hood clearance issues, check first.
The 292 Exhaust manifold will not result in significant improvement.
Tom
- By Kerry, September 23, 2011 @ 7:31 pm
  
  Tom,
  Have a Holley-Weber from a 77 Mustang. Do I need to purchase your linkage or can I just change to a longer throttle rod on my 63 BelAir???

By Leon, September 7, 2011 @ 2:25 pm

i meant a crankshaft pully/harmonic balance from a 250

By Tom, September 7, 2011 @ 10:31 pm

Leon,
No – it will not go on all the way
Tom
By Tom, September 7, 2011 @ 10:31 pm

No, it will not go on all the way.
Tom

By Leon, September 7, 2011 @ 2:24 pm

Tom, will a flywheel pully from a 1968 250 fit a 1960 235?

By Chantz, September 6, 2011 @ 3:32 pm

Hi Tom.
I’ve got a 1955 235 that I’m putting into a 1954 chevy pass car. I am aware of the longer water pump issue, but am trying to figure out the motor mounts at this point. Will your Motor mount kit work for this? Thanks

By Tom, September 9, 2011 @ 1:46 pm

Chantz,
Sorry, our motor mount kit will not work, nor do I know of any kit available.
Tom
By Derek, October 7, 2011 @ 8:46 pm

Chantz, twenty some years ago i put a 55 235 in my 51 chevy car. it all bolted up and there was no water pump clearance issue…..seems like it was made to retrofit. i took it out of a 55 chevy pickup and bolted it right in in about a day. hope this helps
- By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 3:57 pm
  
  Not true.
  Tom

By Carl Brungardt, September 6, 2011 @ 2:29 pm

Hello,
In June I purchased a Holley progressive carb, adapter, and headers from your company to put on the 235 in my ’62 C-10. When I finished assembly last week it started and runs fine except the carb leaks fuel badly from the throttle shaft after I turn it off. I noticed no brass soft plug but still think the carb shouldn’t drain. The leak is on the front/fuel inlet side of the carb. Is there an easy fix?

Thanks,
Carl B.

By Tom, September 7, 2011 @ 7:30 am

Carl,
I agree. Please check to see if carb is dripping (internally with air cleaner off) after the engine is turned off. If so there may be dirt/debris in the needle and seat.
Tom
- By Carl Brungardt, September 8, 2011 @ 2:40 pm
  
  thanks for your quick response.
  
  I checked and it is not dripping. Fuel is pooling on the secondary and leaking out the shaft. Appears to me that the fuel bowl empties.
  - By Carl Brungardt, September 12, 2011 @ 7:04 pm
    
    Can you get back with me on this carb problem?
    
    thanks

By kerchog, September 5, 2011 @ 1:30 pm

tom my mechanical fuel pump on my 1965 292 chevy has a small machined hole under neath and this is leaking fuel any ideas? thx.

By Derek, October 7, 2011 @ 8:51 pm

replace the pump, it has a failed diaphragm and soon, fuel will start getting into the crankcase, diluting the oil and thinning it. next, the rod bearings will scour out and the motor starts knocking or maybe just locks up completely. please do not neglect this, a $30.00 fuel pump is much cheaper than a $1000.00 – $2000.00 engine rebuild
- By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 4:00 pm
  
  Maybe?
  Tom

By digger, September 1, 2011 @ 2:09 pm

hello, i just bought a great 74 omega with a 250 l6 i love everything except the smog /vapor cans etc monojet 1 bbl carb
i,m in alaska, we don,t have the emission laws/inspections anymore. can you recommed a pre smog 1 bbl exact +- replacement carb…

HP mods will have to wait till a rebuild is required. Thanks Digger

By Tom, September 5, 2011 @ 3:12 pm

Digger,
Stick with what you have until you can install a four barrel and dual exhaust.
Tom

By colin, August 31, 2011 @ 6:55 pm

hi Tom I have a 194 inline six and its stock never been re-built, its single carb I want to put a offy intake manifold,headers ,,can I run a 4 barrel carb or do i need to re-build the motor,,, or if I run dual carbs do I still need to re-do my motor

By Tommy Ferris, August 30, 2011 @ 8:00 am

Hello Tom my name is Tommy, I have a 1968 Chevy pickup truck with a 292 engine. The carb. is a Holley 4 bbl (390 cfm) and Flowtech headers. All ready bought the Offenhauser intake with crapy linkage . I have used a welding rod to a cable, its a headache. Do you sell the right linkage from the fire wall to the carb? Please and thanks.

By Tom, August 30, 2011 @ 1:47 pm

Tommy,
I E-mailed you some pictures of our Stovebolt linkage.
Tom
- By Tommy Ferris, September 1, 2011 @ 1:42 am
  
  re-send the pictuers. Didn’t get them.

By Scott Searcy, August 29, 2011 @ 11:20 pm

I know that ported (timed) vacuum advance was utilized to band-aid engines for emission purposes. Why does a 67 Chevy C-20/250/4 speed used ported vacuum advance?

By Tom, September 12, 2011 @ 2:03 pm

For lower hydrocarbon emissions.
Tom

By Pat Fallon, August 27, 2011 @ 9:30 am

What is the best way to increase performance in my 1968 camero 250 CI, 135 HP in line six. Will changing carburtors from the current single barrel rochester up to two or three carbs on one manifold give me anything but headaches? If so, what are better options I can explore for improving engine performance? In the recent ten years, the newer gas has made starting more difficult and I have lost 20% of the top end speed. Pat

By Tom, August 28, 2011 @ 7:31 am

Pat,
My recommendations in order of priority would be:
1. install GM HEI distributor
2. Install modern stick or automatich overdrive transmission.
3. four barrel carb and manifold
4. Cast iron headers and dual exhaust
5. Camshaft

Tom

By Phillip Fortin, August 26, 2011 @ 11:06 am

I have a 1966 Chevelle Malibu with a 230 inline six, the two speed powerglide tranny is starting to go out, what trannys that are 3 speed or 4 speed will bolt up to my engine?

By Tom, September 12, 2011 @ 2:01 pm

I recommend a 200 4R 4 speed automatic.
Tom
- By Derek, October 7, 2011 @ 8:57 pm
  
  find a th350, it is bulletproof and should bolt right in, there will be no shifter problems either except that you will have only drive and low gear positions on the quadrant but you will be able to adjust it so that all three gears are present
  - By Tom, October 27, 2011 @ 4:03 pm
    
    Note: The above is true but compaired to the overdrive transmission, will result in significant loss of performance and fuel economy and ability to cruise at 70 MPH.
    Tom

By Tracy, August 23, 2011 @ 8:46 pm

HI Tom,
I have a 1955 Chevy with a 3 in the tree and I was wondering if I can change the transmission to an automatic transmission would that be too much money and would it be worth it to change the transmission or would I just have to change the motor as well.

By Tom, August 24, 2011 @ 12:48 pm

Tracy,
You will need out transmission adapter and starter motor.
Price is $410.00 + shipping.
Also, shifter, cooler, kick down, Etc.
The decision is yours.
Tom

By Alan B, August 23, 2011 @ 9:10 am

Hello Tom,
I’m looking at a 63 Nova with a 194. Currently all stock with powerglide. I plan to use the car as a long distance cruiser. Some scenic roads but no trying to take on Porsches. No stoplight drags. I’d rather leave this motor in place. Should I just stick with what I have or can I make a nice improvement in power and driveablity by doing some simple bolt ons like a 2 2 bbl intake and better exhaust?
Thanks,
Alan

By Tom, August 23, 2011 @ 2:02 pm

Alan,
The biggest improvement would be to change the powerglide to a 200 4R overdrive.
A 4 BBL would fit under the hood if our 2×2 was too tall.
Call to discuss.
Tom

By Jimmy, August 18, 2011 @ 6:39 am

Hello i have a inline 6 292 gmc motor and the points on the distributor are killing me, where from and how much can i get a Electronic distributor so i can stop messing with the feeler gauges and points?
Thanks

By Tom, August 18, 2011 @ 2:14 pm

Jimmy,
Yes, we can supply a G.M. HEI distributor ($95.00)
Call to discuss and order.
Tom
- By Jimmy, August 18, 2011 @ 7:19 pm
  
  Thank you, What number should I call?

By Jeff Johnson, August 14, 2011 @ 8:09 pm

Tom, I have a chance to buy a 1993 700R4 transmission. Will it fit behind my 79 292, do I need a special tourqe converter and or flywheel? Also could I run an aluminum flywheel to any advantage, and if so would a small block chevy flywheel fit? Cool site and thanks , can’t wait to start putting this motor back together with some of your parts!!!!

Thanks
Jeff

By Luis Trujillo, August 14, 2011 @ 3:04 pm

Hi, I have a 1953 chevy pu with 235 motor and 3-speed manual on the tree not synced first gear. Live in so. Calif–too many stop lights. Was thinking putting in an auto trans but before doing this was wondering if there is a manual with overdrive that I could use instead?
Thanks

By Tom, August 15, 2011 @ 3:44 pm

Luis,
Yes, you can use a S-10 5 speed (1983 – 1987 S-10 with the V6 engine ONLY!) and a axle from a 1955 – 1962 1/2 Ton Chevy truck.
Tom

By motorobo, August 13, 2011 @ 1:39 pm

Hey I have a 1949 Chev, 3100 with a newer 235 from 1958-62 I believe. I want to upgrade to HEI and double or triple carbs. Will tiple carbs fit on this bodystyle and will HEI replace vacuum advance? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Love the site btw, and plan on purchasing these parts here

Ryan

By Tom, August 15, 2011 @ 3:41 pm

Ryan,
I would advise you to use dual carbs, due to firewall clearance with recommended carbs and the triple set-up.
The (G.M.) Mini HEI has both vacuum advance and centrifugal advance for a full function system.
Tom

By Corey, August 13, 2011 @ 8:59 am

Hello Tom

Does anyone sell a 235 crate motor (between the years of 1954-1960)? If not, do you have a good recommendation for a company that sells a remanufactured one? I would like to buy a full oil pressure motor.

Thank You
Corey

By Tom, August 15, 2011 @ 3:36 pm

Corey,
I can supply a short block.
Call to supply your specific needs, location and timetable.
Tom

By Joe Nosella, August 12, 2011 @ 11:03 am

Hi Tom. I have a 1977 292 I’m in the middle of rebuilding. I wanted to mill 0.030 off the head and was wondering if I had to get shorter pushrods after this was done?

Thanks,

Joe

By Tom, August 12, 2011 @ 2:20 pm

Joe,
No, you don’t need shorter pushrods.
Tom
- By Joe Nosella, August 12, 2011 @ 2:39 pm
  
  Thanks Tom.

By Sam Williams, August 10, 2011 @ 1:37 am

I got a 1976 Chevy with a 250 straight 6 and a 3 on the tree when the original owner, a friend’s grandfather, died. They told me it only had 50,00 original miles (I can neither confirm nor deny the truth of the claim). Everything is stock except it has a pointless distributor. The only accessory on the drivebelt is the alternator. It overheated and I replaced the radiator cap, the thermostat (after testing in boiling water), the water pump, and the temperature sending unit. I flushed out the heater core, the engine block, and the radiator with a garden hose. I even took the radiator out and tried it upside down and on the sides. I took the radiator to a radiator shop and it flow tested O.K. They told me I did not need to “rot” it out.

I fear a blown head gasket or a cracked head. I plan to confirm that diagnosis on Saturday afternoon and devote Sunday to the project. I have a friend who is an talented and experienced Chevy mechanic that is going to help me. I am not a mechanic, but I am really excited because I can work on this. It is not completely out of my reach like so many newer cars. Any advice for my first head job?

By Tom, August 10, 2011 @ 1:49 pm

Sam,
The 1976 250 with the integral type cylinder head had a high frequency of cracking under overheat conditions.
I would make sure you definitely:
1- Check flatness of the head
2- Check the flatness of the block
3- Magnaflux the head
Tom

By jr, August 8, 2011 @ 7:29 pm

I got 1953 chev 210 deluxe 6 cyl bleu flame or stove bolt rebuilt and rear main sealed always leaking it s a rope is there other model of sealed or is it the way the guy install could you send me information on it please please thank you

By Tom, August 9, 2011 @ 2:13 pm

Jr,
Rear main seal oil leaks are very common on rebuilt 235 engines; especially in the last 15 years due to the ban on the preferred original material (Asbestos).
Reasons for leakage:
- Non-Asbestos seal
- Non preferred surface finish on the crankshaft
- Poor installation technique
Tom

By Ron, July 23, 2011 @ 5:08 pm

Hi Tom sorry for the confusion i did verify our motor by your great information on your website it is a 216 so on that note is our best option the 235 and if the answer is yes then the rear end out of a 55 thru a 62 1/2 ton still correct and a trans out of a 83 thru 87 chevy s10 5 speed. And i belive that would be a six lug for the rear end thanks again Tom

By Travis, July 21, 2011 @ 3:50 pm

Hello,
I have a 1969 GMC with a 292 inline 6 and was wondering if it would be possible to take the offy 2×1 intake and put two one to two barrel adaptors on the intake and would that work?

By Tom, July 21, 2011 @ 7:36 pm

Yes, using two adapters will work fine if you use two progressive type two barrels. We can supply all parts, including linkage.
- By Travis, July 22, 2011 @ 11:47 am
  
  But how would the air for the two barrel fit down a 1 barrel hole?

By Vern Hill, July 21, 2011 @ 12:46 am

Just wanted to thank you the cast iron headers solved all the leaking problems I had with the spagetti headers. Very nice sound no ticking just nice lovely sound. Will be getting a hei from you when the money tree sheds some leaves my way. Thanks Tom….Vern in Idaho

By Tom, July 21, 2011 @ 7:33 pm

Thank you for taking the time to let us know how things worked out for you.

By Mark S. Henry, July 20, 2011 @ 10:09 pm

Howdy … trying to use my great condition 59 Chevy Apache 3100 inline six three on the tree as a daily driver.

So far the main problem is bog or hesitation taking off, especially from a stop light at the top of a hill. Very embarrassing stalling out in traffic on a busy day in downtown Seattle. I rebuilt the carb and its better than it was but still doesn’t run well enough to use as dependable transportation. All ignition components are new and at idle it purrs like a kitten. New exhaust and fuel filter too. Any ideas?

By Tom, July 21, 2011 @ 7:31 pm

Do you have Fenton or other split exhaust? If not, I would guess that the accelerator pump in your carb is not functioning due to incompatablility with our 15% alcohol fuels or the well and /or cup is worn out.

By Ron, July 19, 2011 @ 2:39 pm

Hi Tom my son had asked you a couple of questions about soupping up our 52 chevy pickup you had recomended a rear end out of a 55 thru 66 chevy 1/2 ton we found a 66 suburban rear end with 373 gears, and then a 5 speed trans out of a 83 – 87 s10 i have been told and from research that this rear end will work , would like your opinion thanks again

By Ron, July 19, 2011 @ 2:56 pm

almost forgot we have the 216 is this engine okay to build up
- By Tom, July 20, 2011 @ 2:00 pm
  
  Ron,
  The 216 is O.K. in stock form but I would not recommend any performance upgrades due to the inferior oiling system.
  Tom
By Tom, July 20, 2011 @ 1:57 pm

Ron,
Yes, the 1966 Suburban will work fine.
The S-10 five speed needs to have a 3.76 first gear and a .73 overdrive to be the one that will work for your application.
Tom

By AllenJ, July 18, 2011 @ 10:08 pm

HOWDY TOM! I gotta 78 250,bought a reman head for it.after I installed it I found the spark plugs dont reach the threads!Plugs need to be about .400 longer @ the threaded end.Any idea whats up here???
thanks AJ

By Tom, July 23, 2011 @ 9:40 am

Allen,

GM made 2 different types of Cylinder heads. The style made before 1971 used a gasket type spark plug with a 3/4″ reach and a 13/16″ hex. The newer head does not use a gasket, has a taper seat and has a 5/8″ hex. These heads are often interchanged due to lack of availability. It is important to use the correct spark plug for each type head. The newer style taper seat type cylinder head has hardened exhaust seats for unleaded fuel.
- By Tom, July 23, 2011 @ 9:44 am
  
  All cylinder heads ever manufactured for the 250 family of engines were made by General Motors. There are no “repop” or “knockoff” cast iron heads ever made by another manufacturer.
- By AllenJ, August 20, 2011 @ 2:01 pm
  
  Hey Tom!! Thanks for the reply, I found the right plugs and it seems to run OK,will unleaded fuel become an issue?? And what will I need to do,try to find correct head or install hardened seats?? Thanks, and you gotta great site here!

By AllenJ, July 18, 2011 @ 10:02 pm

Howdy Tom! I have a “78 250.Bought a reman head,and now that its assembled the spark plugs aren’t long enough!Plug hits against head before threads engage.Any idea whats up here??? AM STUCK!
THANKS AJ

By walmer, July 10, 2011 @ 9:00 pm

i have a 1968 chevy C20 with a 292 mated to an m-20 with 4:11 gears
lately my 292 has been running outa steam the truck have sat for round 20 years and only has 44k on her the compression is 155 but i dont know if i just expected more outa the motor or if it needs a tear down its my daily driver so i’m hoping its no more then a weekend project.
thanks

By Tom, July 14, 2011 @ 4:47 pm

Your problem is difficult to address over the internet but in checking out the engine, keep it simple, verify proper fuel, air and spark. After sitting fuel is the area that would be in the worst shape so make sure that’s OK before you pull it all apart.
Bruce

By Jeff Johnson, July 6, 2011 @ 7:57 pm

Hey Tom. First of all great site. I am about to purchase a 1984 292 out of a C-10. Would this be a good candidate for a hot rod motor? Will it run OK on today’s gas? Also do you recommend the T-5 transmission for this, or would you keep the 350 turbo tranny that the guys says came with it?

By Tom, July 13, 2011 @ 2:25 pm

Jeff,
The 292 would be a great choice if length is not a problem.
Make sure you get all the mounts, frame brackets, pulleys and accessories with the engine.
The T-5 or automatic overdrive would be a great choice. The THM-350 would not be a good choice due to lack of an overdrive top gear.
Tom
- By KEN, July 13, 2011 @ 9:05 pm
  
  I HAVE A BUILT 292 WITH A T70 TURBO THAT WILL BE MAKING 14PSI BOOST. I WANT TO RUN A POWERGLIDE FOR TRACTION IN MY ’66 C10 WITH 3.73 GEARS. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
  - By Tom, July 13, 2011 @ 11:44 pm
    
    I think the powerglide would be your worst choice. Use a 700 R4 to get the turbo on boost quicker.
    - By Ken, July 16, 2011 @ 1:28 am
      
      How much stall? I have 3.40. and 3.73′s for the rear!

By Tim H., June 28, 2011 @ 11:36 pm

Hello Tom,
I have a 70-71 250. With an offy intake, lng tube hedman truck headers that I cut to fit in the Nova. I have a Holley 4412 ( 2bbl 500cfm). Will this carb work decent on these engines if jetted down?

By Tom, June 29, 2011 @ 12:33 pm

Tim,
NO – the Holley 500 CFM 2 BBL is too big for good driveability and slightly too small for maximum power.
You need a 390 CFM 4 BBL for best driveability and maximum power.
(A 390 4 BBL is bigger than a 500 2 BBL due to rating conditions being different)
Tom

By Corey, June 25, 2011 @ 7:31 am

I am having a problem with the very first lifter. It starts out noisey and rapping, then as I drive it seems to pump itself up. but then when i stop and shut off the motor for a couple minutes the oil seems to drain out of it and the rapping is back. This is the 2nd set of brand new lifters I put in it. I have good oild pressure. What is causing this problem and how can I fix it? I am pulling out my hair over this issue.

By Corey, June 25, 2011 @ 11:01 am

Did you mean measure the gear on the cam itself or on the distriburtor?
- By Corey, June 25, 2011 @ 11:04 am
  
  Also found out from Comp cam that it is not forged its cast iron according to the tech for them. So what does that mean?
  - By Tom, June 27, 2011 @ 1:21 pm
    
    That’s all I need to know!
    Tom
- By Tom, June 27, 2011 @ 1:19 pm
  
  Corey,
  1- The gear on the camshaft
  2- An Iron cam is more common and is preferred.
  Tom
By Tom, June 27, 2011 @ 1:39 pm

Corey,
As we discussed on the phone and for others reading this, read our tech article on “noisy lifters”.
Tom

By Chris, June 23, 2011 @ 3:36 pm

Tom,

I am installing a set of your dual Carter / Weber carbs. Are the springs that are built into the carbs sufficient or will I also need to add another throttle return spring, similar to the original set-up?

Chris

By Jeff Edwards, June 20, 2011 @ 10:29 pm

Hey Tom, Im replacing my 1938 chevy 216 with a 1961 full flow 261. It has a 3 carb intake and header with a t5 behind it. Was curious if you knew how much rpm a stock 261 motor can handle and still be “ok.” I’m looking to drive it on the streets but I also want to take it to the drag strip to have a little fun with it. Thanks for any advice on rpm on the motor.

By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:11 am

Maybe 5500 RPM for a few seconds.
- By Jeff, July 5, 2011 @ 9:24 am
  
  Thanks Tom, so I should be ok reving to about 4-4500 rpms at the track, I’m not looking to hurt or blow the motor up.

By Paul, June 8, 2011 @ 10:43 am

The casting number on my straight 6 is 3788406. The engiine numbeer on the pad behind the distributor is F0503B. trying to figure out if its a 250 ?

By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:18 am

It is a ’62-’69 230

By Cosmo, June 6, 2011 @ 10:07 am

Had a H-W for ten years on a ’56 235 with great drve-ability. Upgraded to 2-C-W’s on a vintage Edelbrock with 4 bolt plates welded on by Buffalo Steve. Runs great, looks amazing. Just returned from a 1000 mile round trip with 18.7 mpg., that’s at 70-75 mph!

By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:20 am

Thanks for the feedback!

By John, June 4, 2011 @ 2:16 pm

Tom,
I have a 1968 Chevy Nova with a 250. I have got a Offy intake and a Holley 450 cfm 4barrel. The Offy intake is a 5416, but I’m not sure about the model # on the Holley. I have been having trouble figuring out how to hook the two up because the linkage on the carb doesn’t clear the intake. I was wondering if I just needed to get another spacer or if there was something else that was wrong. If I get another spacer will the carb be able to fit under the bonnet?
Thanks,
John

By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:21 am

Carefully cut a clearance notch on the intake

By timinky, May 31, 2011 @ 3:50 pm

im working on a 250 inline six with the interrogated head my best guess would be a 78 or 79 model out of a car due to it having a one barrel intake,will a non-integrated head from a older style(68-72) 250 work on my block?im wanting to get the better intake and header options that this would bring.thanks

By Tom, June 2, 2011 @ 7:27 pm

Yes, the non-integrated head can be used on your engine. It ws used on some models thru the 1986 model year.

By Robby, May 31, 2011 @ 1:26 pm

I have a 65 C20 with a 250 in it, i just put in a 700r4 and was wondering if there are any brackets available to hook the tv cable to my rochester 2bbl? would it just be easier to get a standard 4 barrel carb that they already make brackets for, if so where do i get an adapter to make it fit my manifold?

By Robby, May 31, 2011 @ 11:29 pm

correction, its a rochester 1bbl, not a 2bbl,sorry.
- By Tom, June 1, 2011 @ 7:46 pm
  
  We do not have any connections for the 1 BBL carb …sorry.
By Tom, June 1, 2011 @ 2:28 pm

Robby,
I do NOT know of any brackets for either a 2 BBL or 4 BBL with the 250 engine.
Tom

By Chris, May 27, 2011 @ 8:59 am

Tom,

I am looking at a pair of your Weber carbs for my chevy 261. I currently have a pair of W-1′s on there now that have the “small base” bolt flange bases, mounted to a dual Offy intake. Will your adapter plates allow me to bolt the Weber’s to my “small base” bolt holes on the Offy intake. Secondly, I am still running a 6 Volt system in my car. Will the electric choke on the Weber’s work with 6 Volts?

Thanks,
Chris

By Tom, May 29, 2011 @ 4:47 pm

The adapters are snug on the 2 11/16″ bolt centers but they will fit. I recommend “header” bolts with a 7/16″ hex head.

Yes, 6 volts will work with the electric chokes.

By Jamie Matacia, May 27, 2011 @ 8:25 am

I have a 1968 chevy P-10 step van with a 230 CID engine. It has 2 timing pointers, one in the normal position and the 2nd one on the bottom side for access underneath due to not being able to see the one that is on top. My question is, what cylinder is the bottom timing mark firing off of…Thank you

By Tom, May 29, 2011 @ 4:48 pm

I don’t know. Sorry.
- By Jamie Matacia, June 19, 2011 @ 9:17 am
  
  I finally figured it out. #2 cylinder is for the bottom timing mark.

By Jayde, May 23, 2011 @ 8:56 am

Hello Tom, I am about to rebuild my 54 235 Blueflame 6. It is fitted to my 46 GMC 3/4 tonne. I am using an offenhauser tripple intake, Williams headers and electronic ignition conversion (all purchased from you), I am fitting three stromberg single down draught carbs with a 7/32″ throat. I am also using a remote oil filter. I have an exceptional machine shop and they are just waiting for directions. I am building my truck for regular use and will often use it to tow loads and sometimes in the hills. I need to build for good low to mid range torque, I will be using 98 octane unleaded.
- What cam shaft should I use? Do you sell them?
- Do I need to balance the engine?
- Is there a better harmonic balancer to use?
- Do you think the carb throat diameter is too large?
- What compression ratio do you recommend?
- What ignition timing would you recommend?
Thanks Tom, your advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jayde

By Tom Mobley, July 10, 2011 @ 6:40 pm

Jayde, be careful here, your use of the word “tonne” implies you are in Australia, U.K. or somewhere else non-stateside. I believe your gasoline is rated by the RON octane number, whereas US gas is rated by the (RON+MON)/2 method. You’ll want to check into this carefully before making any decisions about compression ratio or camshaft. I believe your gasoline is what we would call 92 or 91 here stateside. I think you’ll want to keep the compression ratio at about 9:1 with a reasonable street cam. CR is one of those things that’s not easy to change once the engine is built be sure what you’re getting into. Did I mention 9:1?

By Alex, May 21, 2011 @ 8:33 pm

hello, I have a 1951 chevy pick up with a 66 chevy c 10 250 engine.I want the award wining sound on my truck. what do I need to make it sound like that? what headers and manifold. thanks!

By Alex, May 21, 2011 @ 8:38 pm

Also I want to go with a dual carbs. what carbs should i get? Rochester?
- By Tom, June 24, 2011 @ 11:26 pm
  
  I strongly do not recommend Rochesters. Our Carter Webrs are the best in my opinion.
By Tom, May 23, 2011 @ 2:13 pm

Alex,
You will need our cast iron headers and a heat plate for the intake.
Will you be retaining the original factory steering box? If so, there will be a $20.00 charge for header modifications.
Tom

By John Wood, May 19, 2011 @ 9:20 am

What do you recommend for jet sizes in my dual Rochester B’s on my stock 235 Chevy? Do I need to jet them smaller than when running a single carb set up? The only other engine mods are electronic ignition and full tube headers.
thanks
John Wood

By Tom, May 19, 2011 @ 2:02 pm

John,
The Rochester model B cam in seven different venturi sizes – each venturi has a “correct” jet size.
Call to discuss your best solution.
Tom

By Bo Korink, May 18, 2011 @ 10:36 pm

Hi i am new here but i have a 1963 chevy II with a 194ci with a powerglide i want to rebuild for better performance or build a 250 ci to install any performance suggestions would be helpful nothing to radical but for better performance and were are cameshafts and pistons available, and your suggestions on build 194 or 250
thx Bo

By Tom, June 24, 2011 @ 11:27 pm

A 250 with a 200 4R would be your best combination.

By Randy D., May 12, 2011 @ 11:20 pm

Hello, have a 55 chevy belair with a 235 and last year upgraded to a dual carb setup, which I purchased from Langdon’s. My question is that it Idles high in park but idles normal in drive, do i need to adjust something?

By Tom, May 13, 2011 @ 1:33 pm

Sounds like the chokes (both of them) are not hooked up or they are not operating properly. Call to discuss (586-739-9601).
By Rick Borkowski, May 15, 2011 @ 11:18 pm

Tom,
I have a 62′ 235 that I’m wanting to use a 60s Pontiac Inline ohc 6 split exhaust manifold on. The manifold has the Sprint 4bl qjet hipo intake with it. Ive heard these engines share similar
blocks. I was hoping you could tell me if this would bolt up to the 235? And if so………
I would like to use a dual carb intake with your dual carb kit and heat plate. Or, should I stick with the 4brl Qjet?
- By Tom, May 16, 2011 @ 4:50 pm
  
  Rick,
  The 235 Chevy engine has no similarity or interchangeability with the Pontiac OHC 6. Sorry.
  If your engine was a 1963 230 then there is similarity but this would be a difficult conversion, due to port sizing and bolt pattern.
  An adapter plate would be the best method to use. I do NOT have a drawing or any parts.
  Tom

By A.J., May 8, 2011 @ 10:02 pm

Hi Tom,
I have a 1961 Chevy pickup with a 235 and 4 speed manual. I am looking to swap the throttle linkage for a throttle cable setup, and swap out the generator for an alternator. Do you have any ideas on what I could pull a throttle cable/pedal setup out of that would work?? Also, do you have any preference on alternator models? I’ve heard that the generator bracket can be flipped and one hole re-drilled to mount the alternator, do you have any thoughts on that?
Thanks for your time and effort
A.J.

By A.J., May 11, 2011 @ 12:45 pm

I found the throttle cable answer, using the cable/ pedal out of a 70-71 Chevy truck. The generator bracket looks like it will work, I’ll keep you updated.
By Tom, May 11, 2011 @ 1:27 pm

A.J.
Sorry, I can’t help much but the “ONE WIRE” alternator seems to be the most popular.
Tom
- By John Kaemmerling, June 2, 2011 @ 10:43 pm
  
  I have some recent experience with alternators so I will enlighten you and hopefully save you some money at the same time. The advantage of the single wire alternator is simply its simple hookup. The disadvantage is the lack of the other wires. To explain, the white wire should be connected at the fuse box where all of your power hungry components are connected this white wire is also called a sense wire. This wire provides the alternator with the voltage level at the fuse box so that the voltage regulator can compensate for the voltage drop as you increase load by turning on lights, AC systems, etc. The single wire type gets its voltage signal from the battery and you can see that if the fuse box is some distance away the voltage drop to your components could be quite large. The money savings come from knowing that you MUST install a diode (6amp get at Radio Shack) in the white wire with the line on the diode towards the alternator. This is to stop the alternator from back feeding to the fuse box and causing the engine to continue to run. If you choose to not install the diode and the engine runs on just pull the alternator and take it to shop for a rebuild. The guys at my shop took pity on me and fixed it for the price of the parts. The voltage regulator, diodes, and diode trio were all roasted.

By David Morgan, May 8, 2011 @ 3:26 pm

I have a ’89 silverado with 350 wanna change to 292 -if I install all the sensors from the 350 onto the 292 and use tbi adapter and buy distributer will everything work like its suppossed to (tranny -etc

By Tom, May 11, 2011 @ 1:24 pm

David,
NO, this will not work well due to distributor firing frequency and the engine displacement.
Tom

By Gary Norton, May 7, 2011 @ 4:55 pm

Thanks Tom,I will be ordering from you a little later.
Gary

By Gary Norton, April 29, 2011 @ 9:47 pm

I have this head (3927763) off a 292. How much would I have to mill off to get a 9.0 or 9.5 comp. on a 1971 250? I also would like to know how much comp. a 292 (1970) would have if I took the dished pistons out and installed flattops?
Thanks,
Gary

By Tom, May 5, 2011 @ 2:02 pm

Gary,
You would need to mill off too much to get 9.0 :1 CR.
You need to use the L.P.G. pistons to get 9.25:1 C.R.
Flat top pistons are not generally available for the 292. They would give it about 10.5:1 C.R.
Tom
- By Marc, May 12, 2011 @ 10:19 pm
  
  What if I were looking to do the opposite!? I KNOW that everyone keep telling me that it is not interchangeable…. but I am stubborn and I believe there has to be a way to do ANYTHING. I was throwing an LT1 in my ’47 Chev, but scratch that, I just got a rebuilt 292 from a friend. I know that will look much better. I want to keep it nostalgic, so I am trying to find a way to mate a 235 head to the 292 block…. I am hoping to be able to have Fenton split exhausts, dual Offy intake and a Wayne valve cover on a 292 block!! Am I completely out of my head, or is this possible?
  - By Tom, May 13, 2011 @ 1:29 pm
    
    We have a valve cover adapter to put the 216 or 235 style valve cover on the 292. We also sell cast iron “Fenton Style” headers and the Offy dual carb intake.

By Adam, April 28, 2011 @ 12:39 pm

I’m looking to put a 250 with a 700r4 in my 34 master. First off is this a good idea? I will be updating the front suspension and rearend as well. I’m trying to keep as much of the stock look as possible while making it something I can jump in at highway speeds and put 300 miles between me and the daily grind. Would you have motor mounts and exhaust manifold? Are there certain blocks I should stay away from? What would be a good rearend ratio with setup for hilly PA terrain? thanks

By Tom, May 5, 2011 @ 1:46 pm

Adam,
Yes, we can help with the parts but do NOT offer frame mounts for your 1934 Master.
I would use a 3.73 ratio axle with the 700R4 transmission.
Tom

By oehmke, April 27, 2011 @ 4:29 pm

I bought your MINI HEI last year with the std coil and now would like to upgrade to the more period correct looking round type coil. How much will that cost?
Bruce Oehmke

By Tom, April 27, 2011 @ 5:09 pm

We have the round coils in stock and the price would be $20.00 + shipping.

By David, April 27, 2011 @ 3:17 pm

I would like to performance build my ’58 235 is there an adapter plate to use a ’91 700R4 transmission. I currently run a stock rear , the 700R4 and a ’63 283 CID engine in my ’58 Delray post sedan. I would like to split exhaust and Qjet my 235.

By Tom, May 5, 2011 @ 1:36 pm

David,
Yes, we sell the adapter ($350.00) and starter motor ($60.00).
We can also supply split exhaust and various intake manifolds for your 235.
Tom

By chuck, April 26, 2011 @ 5:23 am

I have a 48 chevy p/u that i want to upgrade to a 235 or bigger engine. I would like to put on hi-po parts from your catalog. Do you sell complete engines? If not, can you recommend a good place to get an engine? Which engine do you recommend? (good power, reliabilty, and fairly good gas mileage). Would also like to use an automatic trans. Which one would you recommend?

Thank you!
Chuck
Las Vegas, NV

By Tom, April 26, 2011 @ 11:23 pm

The 235 (or 261 cu.in. truck version if you can find one) would obviously be the easiest to install. A 200 4R or 700 R4 transmission is the most important part of your combination to get good performance and fuel economy.
- By Nick Werner, April 27, 2011 @ 9:47 am
  
  I have a chance at a 700R4 to put in a 48 chev 5 window on a 1985 s-10 frame for the sum of 500.00 and very reliable friend says it works. Do I buy the trany and put in without overhaul? or is it better to keep looking for 200R4? I do not know the rear end ratio. This will be hooked to a 1987 292 inline 6
  Nick

By Kevin King, April 9, 2011 @ 1:34 pm

I have a 1953 Chevy Truck that someone installed a newer 250 inline 6 in. The Carburetor (an after market Holley) doesn’t fit correctly on the Manifold. The base is about 3/8′s of an inch too big to bolt up to the Manifold properly and the Linkage is totally wrong for this vintage of truck. Plus the truck has been sitting since about 1989 (the last time licensed) so the old gas in the Carburetor looked like dried out, brown, ugly, jello. I sprayed all the cylinders with PB BLASTER and got the engine completely freed up. It took a couple of days of soaking with the PB BLASTER and carefully turning the engine over, plus soaking all the valves, until I finally got everything free and spinning and came up with 160lbs. of Compression on all Cylinders and 40lbs. of Oil Pressure, which I believe is a respectful amount of Compression & Oil Pressure. I have taken the Carburetor apart and sprayed it, inside and out, with Carburetor Cleaner. I hooked up a new fuel pump, and elimated the fuel tank by putting new line in a gas jug and letting the Fuel Pump pick up the prime BUT with the carburetor not working properly, I am at a stand still.

My Question is, which would be better for my application: (1) Buy your Double Carbureted Manifold, Carburetors and Linkage or (2) Buy your 4 Barrel Manifold, linkage and another aftermarket 4 barrel?

I have to admit, I love the look of you 2 carburetors on the inline 6… Thanks, Kevin

By Tom, April 10, 2011 @ 9:23 pm

Are you going to install headers? What is your budget? Send a picture of your carb linkage set – up (theboss@stoveboltengineco.com).

Both Offy 1x 4 and the 2×2 have similar cost and performance.
- By Kevin King, April 11, 2011 @ 4:35 am
  
  First thing I’m going to do see if this 250 is going to run. My buddy has a 250 in his Wrecking yard over on the Olympic Peninsula but it has an integral head, mine is not but I think the carburetors will interchange. All I want to do is see if the engine is salvageable before I start putting a lot of money into Manifolds, Headers, carburetors etc,,, My budget is around $5,000.00 per year, I can put into my project. IF it is a runner, like I believe it is and was told by the previous owner, I will take the time to dress up the engine, Paint the engine bay, Block, I’ve already located an Aluminum Valve Cover and Side Plates, and put Headers, Manifold, Carbs etc… on to make it a nice looking and nice running truck. I’m not one to cut corners or cost when it comes to my projects. I have a 55 Chevy Nomad that I’ve been working on for about 4 years now. It has a Big Block, Air Ride, Disc Brakes Front & Rear, Ford 9″ etc…that I have over $20,000.00 into and it will be another $15,000.00 before I’m done. I’m hoping to put about $5,000.00 into this one and have a pretty nice Driver while I finish them both.
  
  Will send pic tomorrow. Have to take some close ups so we can see linkage, Carburetor, Manifold etc… Thanks, Kevin

By Ken Hildreth, April 8, 2011 @ 9:56 am

Tom,
I have a 250ci inline 6 in my 65 Nova. I want to put those stovebolt headers on it but I have heard that the steering will rub on the headers. Is this true? If so what can be done about it. Thanks
Ken

By Tom, April 10, 2011 @ 9:27 pm

I have never heard from any of our 500 + headers customers of this problem but many tubular type headers have many interference problems.
- By PAT, April 23, 2011 @ 7:06 pm
  
  CAN ANYONE PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE FROM A 216 FROM A 235 MOTOR NOT SURE WHAT I HAVE IN MY CHEV 1953 4400 SERIES FARM UTILITY TRUCK SAYS 85 HP AT 3300 R P M THANKS P. M.
  - By Tom, April 23, 2011 @ 11:03 pm
    
    Give me your casting number and I will tell you what you have in your 1953 4400.
    - By PAT, May 2, 2011 @ 6:03 pm
      
      Hi Tom it was hard to see casting # so did best i could >>3835 8 or 3 4 0 or 9 hope you can tell,
      Also could see serial # better dont know if it helps LCA 308428 NOTICE CRANK CASE BLOW OFF UNDER OR NEAR BOTTOM OF DIP STICK >>>THANKS TOM FOR YOUR HELP
      P, S , DO YOU HAVE A SIMPLE BOLT UP POWER STEERING UNIT FOR MY 4400 SERIES 1953

By Mark, April 5, 2011 @ 3:12 pm

Hi I have a 72 chevy c10 with a t-5 transmission out of an s10 and I was wondering is there anywhere I can get An adapter for my stock speedometer? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks

By Tom, April 5, 2011 @ 8:55 pm

The ’83-’87 S-10 T-5 transmissions used a speedo fitting like our original 1972 truck, but you need to change the tailhousing.

By Wholesale Tires, April 5, 2011 @ 7:49 am

Hey there! Do you use Twitter? I’d like to follow you if that would be ok. I’m definitely enjoying your blog and look forward to new posts.

By Tom, April 5, 2011 @ 8:51 pm

Sorry, no I don’t twitter….too busy running the business.

By Joseph, March 29, 2011 @ 11:45 am

I have a 51 GMC pickup with 261 engine and four speed tranny I would like to install a 350 engine and running gear What do i need to accomplish this?

By Tom, March 29, 2011 @ 3:11 pm

Joseph,
Sorry, the 350 is a V8, we only deal with in-line 6 cylinder engines.
Tom

By Tyler, March 29, 2011 @ 10:29 am

I have a 46 dodge flathead six engine Im not sure of the size ,and I was wondering if you have any head gaskets and how much so they cost.

By Tom, March 29, 2011 @ 2:18 pm

Tyler,
Your engine could be a 218 or 230 Cu. In.
I do not stock head gaskets but could supply a set if you can’t find it locally. Try NAPA.
Tom

By Daniel B. Hernandez, March 28, 2011 @ 4:54 pm

Hi Tom,
I have a Chevy 235 that im in the process of retro fitting. So my question is what would be the most efficient set up as far as upgrading carb, intake, headers, exhaust pipe size, alternator, oil system and maybe a alternitive to the powerglide i have now. I’m open to any options, just looking to get the most mpg and performence. Thanks for any advice
Daniel B. Hernandez

By Tom, March 29, 2011 @ 2:24 pm

Daniel,
My recommendations would include:

Transmission: 200 4R Overdrive (with our adapter kit)
Axle: 3.73 or 4.10 Ratio
Inlet Manifold: Offenhauser 2 x 1
Carbs: Two Carter Weber’s
Exhaust Manifold: Cast Iron Williams brand
Ignition: Stovebolt GM “MINI” HEI
Alternator” 12 Volt GM “one wire type”
Tom

By Robert Kenney, March 26, 2011 @ 4:14 pm

I have a 1966 chevy Fleetside truck with the 250 6 cly and am doing some performance mods .My research has led me to a possible 5 speed trans swap using a 83 to 89 dodge NP gas transmission ( Diesel has thicker input shaft) there is a company that makes the adapter and uses the stock clutch set up, which is nice of course I will have to build a new trans mount and rebuild my drive shaft with a dodge input shaft.I also found a company that builds a speedometer cable that plugs in and fits my stock instrument cluster. The shifter is placed on the top forward enough to make the shifter locate very well in the floorboard. Have you ever heard of this swap and do you have any comments or recommendations for me ?

By Tom, March 27, 2011 @ 10:39 pm

The Chevrolet S-10 truck T-5 (five speed) is a direct bolt in to your ’66 pickup. No adapter, etc. This has been done hundreds of times. I have one in my ’61 and my ’71 pickups. Call for info or in you need a trans.

By Robert Kenney, March 26, 2011 @ 4:01 pm

Hi I have a 250 6 cly in a 1966 chevy Fleetside. I am planning the twin side draft set up from Clifford I have the Headers already and want to know how to gather what I need for Power Steering .I have a Rez Engineering adaptor plate and A Kit form steering box ;power steering pump;and lines .I need the brackets to hang the alt and power steering .Also is there a harmonic balancer and bracket combo that would let me run a serpentine belt system ?I will be running a Vintage air system on the right side of the motor which has serpentine so it would be very modern and well thought out looking .

By Tom in Maine, March 24, 2011 @ 10:07 pm

Hello from Maine,

I have two questions:

1) I have the Carter YF’s on my Offenhauser 2X1 intake. I want to make sure I’m using the correct carb base-to-intake gaskets. I have two types of gasket, one with a tiny hole next to the bore opening, and one type that has no extra hole near the bore opening. Which should I use with my carb configuration?
2) I’m considering the idea of upgrading my Carter YF’s for a pair of your Carter Webbers. Can I use the same Offenhauser linkage that I’m using today? I have a Powerglide rod and stock bellcrank on my 230 engine.
Thanks for your reply,
TB

By Tom, March 25, 2011 @ 1:53 pm

Tom,
1- Most Cater YF carbs have vacuum signal holes (“ports”) in the base. The gasket you use must expose these ports to manifold vacuum.
2- The Carter Weber’s will require linkage adapters and air cleaners. Heat to the manifold is also required for any Carb set up.
Tom

By Paul Dresser, March 23, 2011 @ 3:51 am

Tom,
I wanted to mention, for your readers benefit, that Steven Staff(www.mighty6.com) has finally broken into the 8′s with his ’36 Chevy 1/2 ton pick-up. The run on the website shows a .366 reaction time with the best of 8.71 seconds @ 153.4 mph. Is there any data anywhere to support the fact that he might be the fastest six cylinder pick-up in America ?? Hats off to Steven, Craig and crew for a finely engineered ride that speaks for itself !!!

By Tom, March 23, 2011 @ 4:00 pm

Paul,
Thanks for the information.
Tom

By Freddie, March 21, 2011 @ 7:57 pm

My 64 C10 has a remanufactured 230 I6 with a serial number FO7I7N or (F07I7N). Can someone tell me from what model (truck/car) and year this motor would have come from?

By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 2:58 pm

Freddy,
A 230 would have been the base engine in a 1964 C-10.
I can not check your (F0717N) serial number but I can check the block casting number (3854036?) if you send it to me.
Tom
- By Freddie, March 22, 2011 @ 7:55 pm
  
  The block number is 3788406. Thanks, Freddie

By Marcos V., March 17, 2011 @ 4:15 pm

I have had my 292 block bore 30 over. Clifford cam 264 will be installed, I am thinking 3 carbs for performance and looks. Would that be overkill?

By Tom, March 17, 2011 @ 6:04 pm

Our triple Carter Webers (32DFT) will work great but I have some concerns about firewall clearance. Call to discuss (586-739-9601).
- By Philip Sondreal, March 27, 2011 @ 1:46 am
  
  Tom,
  I own a 1950 Chevrolet 3/4 ton pickup with a 235. I would like to update the inline 6 to a larger one. Which one would you recommend and how much power can I expect with the upgrades on your web site? Also, does it matter what year engine I purchase? Thank you!
  
  Phil Sondreal
  - By Tom, March 29, 2011 @ 2:28 pm
    
    Phil,
    A 261 would be a drop in installation.
    A 292 is longer and would would require moving the radiator.
    The 292 could easily make 200 H.P. but the limit for streetable might be about 270 H.P.
    Tom
- By Marcos V., June 20, 2011 @ 12:53 pm
  
  Well you were right the back carb would have problems with the Firewall.. Any suggestion maybe going to a 2 carburetor setup? I am open to any of your Ideas.

By Joe, March 9, 2011 @ 9:23 pm

I purchased a progressive 2bbl and adapter from you and now I need a Harmonic balancer. The engine is a 1964 Pontiac 215, which is identical to the Chevy 230 except for the bore size. The balancer is a pressfit as the cranck is not threaded for a bolt. Also there are no pulley grooves, the pulleys are bolted to the balancer. I read on a forum that you had recommended to someone a SBC balancer that might work in place of it. If it has the pulleys intergrated into, so be it. The I.D. is just under 1 1/4″ and O.D. 6 3/4″. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joe.

By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 3:26 pm

Joe,
I can supply a Chevy 230 harmonic balancer which has one pulley groove to drive the water pump and alternator.
Price is $25.00 + shipping.
Tom

By strumpfhosen, March 1, 2011 @ 9:36 am

Anyone running an old – or even a newer “offbeat” vehicle should keep a few spares with them to minimize the liklihood of problems on the road. I’m speaking of things like a waterpump, points and condensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc. as applicable.

Presuming that one has checked the vehicle over thoroughly ahead of time, major internal problems are extremely unlikely – even on high-mileage vehicles.

That said, sourcing parts for a Chevy six is really not much more difficult than for a small block V8. Possibly I’m luckier than most, but at age 62 I’ve never been stranded where I couldn’t get my vehicle repaired either by myself or with locally available help – even with things as rare as a three-cylinder, two stroke Saab. My closest call was when the ball bearings dropped out of the steering box on a forward control Ford van, but even then I was able to find a junk yard with a suitable donor vehicle.

By david 74 nova, February 28, 2011 @ 1:34 pm

Hey i think i already asked this but cannot find it, i am running a 250 Chev in a 74 nova wondering if there is a 6 speed option i can run, also will the mid 90′s caprice/impala or camaro rear ends fit? i am showing my nova 10 bolt is 59.6″ width and the caprice and camaors are 60.7 is that inch gonna be a difference? or can just relocate the mounts and perch and go with it? also are there any after market heads for the Chev inline 6 or do i have to get a used one reworked?

By jed58chevy, February 27, 2011 @ 6:19 pm

I have a 1958 Chevy pick up and i was wondering if i put a dual carb intake on it if i would have to change the crank and the other stuff like that?

By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 3:21 pm

Jed,
If you use good carburetors, this would work just fine.
We can supply any parts you would need including the carbs.
Tom

By vince, February 27, 2011 @ 2:11 pm

some guy has a 1986 250 bolted to a 700r4 from a chevy van (says it was stock for the van). is this the same type as the older 250. does any one have any info on how much horse power its pushing stock. One other question is it the same as the camaro 1969 250. I am looking to put it in a 1937 chevrolet coupe. I have a mustang ii for my coupe and can put a v8 in it but i just cant get away from that sound the 6 puts out.

By Tom, March 22, 2011 @ 3:16 pm

Vince,
All 230 and 250 engines used the same block, but starting in 1975 some engines (but NOT ALL) use the integral head design where the intake manifold is cast integral with the head. In 1982 I think the power was rated at about 140 H.P.
Tom

By Robert, February 20, 2011 @ 11:55 pm

wanting to rebuild 235 before I put it in my 46 3/4 ton. headers/ daul intake/ larger pistons/ larger cam and so on.the guy I got the engine from said it was rebuilt 12 years or so ago, How can I tell if the cam and piston and other such things have already been upgraded

By Tom, February 28, 2011 @ 2:36 pm

The only way to really know is to disassemble and measure the parts in question.
Tom

By cliff martin, February 12, 2011 @ 2:07 am

looking for forged pistons for a 1955 235 six cylinder…preferably 9 to1 or 10 to 1 compression.Do you know who makes them or do you have them???thanks (building a performance 235)

By Tom, February 13, 2011 @ 6:05 pm

You can purchase forged pistons for your 235 from Ross Pistons (in California) 310-536-0100. You also might consider upgrading your 235 to a 261.

By allenJ, February 11, 2011 @ 2:12 pm

mmmm! let me clarify….gonna bore .030,do I want cast alum or hypereutec? will add int. & ex. later

By allenJ, February 11, 2011 @ 10:18 am

hi tom,
am buyin’ a 78 1/2 ton 292 w/granny4 engine smokes.gonna rebuild 4 daily driver,trl puller.wanna upgrade pistons and cam while its apart,external add-ons later.what would you recomend??? thanks,allen

By Tom, June 25, 2011 @ 12:05 am

Add a 4 BBL and dal exhaust only until you get rid of the Granny 4

By Kyle, February 11, 2011 @ 8:10 am

Howdy from Texas! I have a 1961 Biscayne with a stock (single barrel Rochester) 235/3 speed. I would like to add a 2×1 Fenton and matched carbs without over-carbing the stock cam. What kind of HP/Performance can I expect and do I need to change my cam? I plan on keeping the stock manifold exhaust. Thanks!-Kyle

By Tom, February 13, 2011 @ 5:54 pm

You will need to modify the intake/carbs/air cleaners to fit under your hood. Check the distance from your manifold to the hood by squashing clay between your air cleaner and the hood.

By George King, January 28, 2011 @ 4:24 pm

Hello,
I have a 1956 Chevy 150 that has a 235 and a 3 speed manual transmission.
I would like to install a 292 engine with a 5 speed trans out of a S-10 truck with the 4.3l
V/6 and the Gertrag trans.
I am looking for engine mounts. Do you have something that will work for this conversion?
Or can you suggest someone?
Many thanks, George

By Tom, January 28, 2011 @ 10:21 pm

Sorry, I do not have any mounts for this combination.

By Scott, January 21, 2011 @ 9:51 pm

I have a ’68 P10 step van forward control with a 250 cu. and a 3 spd manual. Have you heard of anyone putting a header and intake on and making it work without major mods? I was looking at your headers and using your Weber conversion on the stock intake.

Thanks
Scott

By Tom, January 25, 2011 @ 1:39 pm

Scott,
The headers will work in your ’68 P-10 but the engine compartment “dog house” will probably prevent intake upgrades.
Tom

By david 74 nova, January 19, 2011 @ 5:46 pm

Hey all i was wondering if anyone know if i can run a newer camaro 5 speed tranny on my inline 6 in my 1974 Nova? Or am i stuck with 3 and 4 speeds?

By Tom, January 20, 2011 @ 10:03 am

Yes, the Camaro T-5 will fit into your Nova. I have one in my ’68 Firebird. You will need to change the clutch disc and rework the trans. mount.

By sam t, January 15, 2011 @ 12:11 am

I have a 1977 chevy c10 whith a inline 6 250 with a manual 3 speed .Id like to put a 5 speed in would you recommend a T/5 and which car should I get this out of .Any recommends would be appreciated I like manuals.

By Tom, January 15, 2011 @ 9:34 pm

Sam,
I would look for a S-10 T-5 type transmission from a 1983-1987 S-10 truck with a 2.8 L V6 engine (NOT a 2.5L four cylinder engine).

Tom
By Tom, January 15, 2011 @ 9:34 pm

Sam,
I would look for a S-10 T-5 type transmission from a 1983-1987 S-10 truck with a 2.8 L V6 engine (NOT a 2.5L four cylinder engine).

Tom

By alex, January 9, 2011 @ 11:18 pm

I was wondering if a 250 i6 would bolt to a t350 tranny or if I would need any adapters?

By Tom, January 12, 2011 @ 12:19 pm

Alex,
The THM 350 is a direct bolt up to the 250 inline six and was standard in the early 1970′s.
I recommend looking into a more modern overdrive transmission like a 200-4R or 700-R4.
Tom
- By Alex, January 12, 2011 @ 1:54 pm
  
  Thank you for your help. What are the benefits to the 200-r4 or the 700-r4?
  - By Alex, January 12, 2011 @ 1:55 pm
    
    The truck currently has a 3 speed manual.

By Micah, January 7, 2011 @ 1:36 am

Hi I have a 230 inline 6 in a 1967 nova. I’m having trouble finding a replacement dipstick tube. I’ve went to a salvage yard and have only had trouble pulling them out. Nothing aftermarket so far. The tube only seems to be about 2 inches long. Do you sell these? Or know anywhere I can get one? Thanks a lot it’s the last thing I need before it’s on the road.

By Tom, January 7, 2011 @ 11:05 pm

Sorry, I do not have any dipstick tubes.

Try a 5/16″ bolt inside the tube with 2 pairs of vice grips for removal at the junkyard.
Tom

By Tom, December 22, 2010 @ 3:22 pm

Try Vacuum advance hooked up to manifold.
Tom

By agtedder, December 21, 2010 @ 11:40 am

54 235 3×1 rochesters highlift large journal cam…080 over bore…060 main and .040 rod …stock rod and forged flat tops..stock crank..wondering about redline rpm range?

By Tom, December 22, 2010 @ 3:22 pm

1- I would use 5000 RPM
2- Try Vacuum advance hooked up to manifold.
Tom

By Mark, December 16, 2010 @ 10:05 pm

Will your motor mounts work on a 250 & 350 trans that I want to put in my 52 Chevy deluxe and will I have to do any welding to you motor mounts

By Tom, December 19, 2010 @ 2:42 pm

Yes, our mounts will work for a 250 into a ’52 Chevy.

By randy, December 16, 2010 @ 7:14 pm

thanks for gettin back to me tom———can i ask how much——–and can i pay with my visa

By Justin Smith, December 6, 2010 @ 10:17 pm

Tom I am soon going to order an offy four barrel intake for a holley 390 carb I have. Its going on a 230 ci in a 1968 Nova with a TH350 tranny. I wanted to know your suggestions on how to connect the throttle cable and kick down cable? The nova came with a cable not a rod that ran from the gas pedal to the carb linkage.

By Tom, December 13, 2010 @ 4:22 pm

Justin,
A much longer cable and new bkt will be required. we do not sell these.
Tom

By Robert Brausch, December 2, 2010 @ 7:36 pm

I have a 54 chevy 3100. I need to install a motor. I wish to keep the stock trans and drive train. What motor(s) would you suggest to be best as to minimize tech problems and availability. Also, does it make sense to change rear gear ratio? The novelty of the vehicle is my main concern, expense and tech issues intimidate me at this juncture. Thanks, Rob.

By Mark, November 23, 2010 @ 3:02 pm

I have a 1953 3100 pick up and I have put a 261 motor with a mild cam , 80 oversize pistons and would like to have the best possible running manifold and carb set up possible for this 261 motor? Any advise would be greatly . Mark

By Tom, November 24, 2010 @ 12:16 pm

Mark,
Our dual “Carter Weber” progressive two barrels would be the best set-up.
Call to discuss details, options and to order.
586-739-9601
Tom

By Matt, November 21, 2010 @ 7:18 pm

Hi I was wondering if you sell any type of kit to adapt a 5 speed s-10 transmission to a chevy 235 in a 54 chevy?
Thanks,
Matt

By Tom, November 22, 2010 @ 1:32 pm

If your ’54 is a car, you will need an adapter from Buffalo Enterprises (360-652-7684). We can supply a transmission but no “kit”.

By rsanchez919, November 20, 2010 @ 12:57 am

ih i’m trying to find out if the four barrel intake manifold work for my 600 cfm edelbrock 4 barrel carb also looking for a elect distributor for 70 chevy c10 stepside 292 inline six thank you

By Stephen, November 19, 2010 @ 8:58 pm

Where can we get a universal cable throttle assembly?

By Tom, November 20, 2010 @ 10:12 pm

I do know that Locar makes a wide variety of cables.
Tom

By marty, November 16, 2010 @ 8:12 pm

I have a 261 with the welded pully water pump i belive 261 also have a bolt on pully . Would this fit with the 292 balancer. marty bozek luitz fl. you have seen my 55 frist the yellow one on carters catalog

By Tom, November 16, 2010 @ 11:58 pm

What year is your 261 engine? (Is it a 1954 or is it a ’55-’62?) The 292 balancer needs machining to fit the 261 Chevy.
Call to discuss (586-739-9601).

By Tom Pitts, November 12, 2010 @ 11:17 am

Tom- I want to thank you for the outstanding technical help and quality products.
I’ve called you a couple times and you have called me on a weekend night to clarify your feedback regarding one of my emails. It took some head scratchin, but all has worked out.
Thanks-Tom P

By JIM, November 10, 2010 @ 11:19 am

I am building a ’42 chevy 1/2 ton pickup. Ive put in a 250 six with a turbo 350 trans. I want headers but was told nothing is available that fits that chassis and there may be also a problem with the steering box being in the way as well. What do you think? Thanks, Jim Badgley, Colorado Springs, CO.

By Tom, November 12, 2010 @ 8:20 am

We can handle the steering box issue just call to discuss. 586-739-9601.
Tom

By Brad, November 8, 2010 @ 3:41 pm

I have a 54chev truck that currently has a 235 with a 5 speed behind it and am looking at ugrading it to a 292. I know the trans will bolt directly up but am concerned about the length of the motor and if i will have to change anything else other than the motor mounts. will there be any interference with the radiator and fan and will the driveshaft have to change? any help would be great thanks BRad

By Tom, November 8, 2010 @ 9:13 pm

The 292 and its water pump are alot longer and will require moving the radiator.

If you are using a T-5 from an S-10 truck, it is not strong enough for the 292 torque. The driveshaft will be okay.
- By Scott B., February 2, 2011 @ 11:41 am
  
  I have a T-5 from an S-10 that I was considering putting behind a 292. If this trans not strong enough, then what maual trans with overdrive would you recommend?
  - By Tom, February 2, 2011 @ 2:18 pm
    
    The T-5 S-10 type case and tailhousing are perfect for the older truck bellhousing and bench seats but you need a Camaro/Firebird V8 gearset to transplant into the S-10 case. This combination will take the 292 torque.
By william sutton, January 20, 2011 @ 10:43 am

You’re bellhousing will have to be changed also. A 235 bellhousing will not bolt to a 230,250,292 engine.
By michael, August 30, 2011 @ 4:05 pm

Hey brad what are you going to do with the 235 engine that you’re taking out?

By Don, November 6, 2010 @ 6:23 pm

I just recently had my 230 engine rebuilt and put back in the truck after 10 years. Well I cant find the oil dipstick and havnt seen any companys selling that part. Any help would be great

By Ryan, November 3, 2010 @ 10:02 pm

I have a chevy 261 motor that i would like to install in my 1953 chevy belair coupe. will your motor mounts work and i am open for suggestions.
Thanks
Randall

By Tom, November 14, 2010 @ 11:06 pm

What year is your 261? If it is a ’58-’62 version, we can modify your 1953 engine brackets to work with your ’58-;62 261 engine. Call to discuss details (586-739-9601).

By Tom Pitts, October 31, 2010 @ 5:38 pm

Tom
Have you seen the bellcrank/spacers available from T6 Racing.
Looks like it may work as a clean setup for the intake I’m getting from you.
I’ll be hooking up the Edelbrock 500 to my 250 66 Chev pickup.
Thanks
Tom P.

By Al Baldoni, October 28, 2010 @ 10:02 am

Tom, I’ve talked to you before, I know you give good advise. I bought an exhaust manifold and electronic ignition for my 1966 chevy 292. It all works very well, I’m very happy. Would a four barrel manifold and carb. give me any better performance, mainly more speed? I’ve got a 1 barrel carb. that’s doing a good job now.
Thank-You Al Baldoni Auburn Calif.

By Tom, October 28, 2010 @ 2:26 pm

Al,
Yes, A small four barrel (Holley 390 or Edlebrock 500) and an Offy 4 BBL Intake will really help the power in the 2500-5000 RPM.
Tom

By Joe, October 25, 2010 @ 9:13 pm

where can I get a stage 1 tuning for a 254X264 cam and a harmonic balancer to match 235 cuin chevy?

By Gary Norton, October 22, 2010 @ 8:58 pm

I have a 1970 c10 witch I have installed a 292 from a 1970 c60. I have installed a cam out of a 250 witch I was told would get beter mileage witch is not working, I have installed a 700r4 trans and the rear end gear is 373. I tryed the factory monojet, and have tryed differant 2 barrels and cant get any mileage. Is it just that the 292 is hard on gas. Can someone tell me how to get good mileage from this engine or I will be happy to trade it for a 230 or 250. Gets 13-15 mpg.

By Tom, October 23, 2010 @ 12:19 am

Your 1970 C-10 probably could get 18 mpg (on the hwy) if your fuel and spark were optimum. Call (586-739-9601) to discuss.
Tom

By Don Rowland, October 22, 2010 @ 2:22 pm

It looks as if the rear main seal is among the sources of leaking. One good thing with the oil coating the underside of the truck I won’t have to worry about rust. (ha)

By Jeff Huffman, October 20, 2010 @ 10:25 pm

I have a ’59 Chevy pick-up, 235, your exhaust header and dual carb intake and intake water heating attachment. It has the stock generator and regulator, which isn’t charging. Do you have a kit (alternator, brakets, wiring diagram) to convert to a GM 2-wire system? Or can direct me.
Thanks
Jeff Huffman
Stillwater, Oklahoma

By Tom, October 22, 2010 @ 2:26 pm

Jeff,
You can get a good quality bracket from Buffalo Enterprises (360-652-7684) in Arlington WA.
Call Patrick’s Antiques (520-836-1117) for wiring information.
I recommend a GM “one wire” alternator.
Tom

By Don Rowland, October 20, 2010 @ 3:21 pm

I have a 1954 GMC 100 series pickup with a 248 engine. The engine leaks oil at an alarming rate making the underside of the truck and my garage floor very messy. Do you have any suggestion as to how to stop the leaks?

By Tom, October 22, 2010 @ 2:18 pm

Don,
The rear main seal is always suspect. Do some investigation and get back with me after.
Tom

By Tom Pitts, October 7, 2010 @ 2:23 pm

Sorry- I lost previos message somehow.
Can we fit a Holly 350 onto your quad intake- What intake should I use, Adapter ?
Holly 350 or Edelbrock 500 better for reliability, trailer tow, everyday driver-

Tom

By Tony, October 4, 2010 @ 1:05 pm

I’m looking for a cylinder head for a 1937 chevrolet 6 cylinder. Would like to know what models would be the same? Presently have a 41 chevrolet head on a 37 engine doesnt work well.

By Tom, October 5, 2010 @ 1:01 pm

Sorry, I don’t have one and it is my experience that it is very hard to find a 1937 head that is not cracked. I am not knowledgeable enough on the pre 1954 engines to comment of interchangeability.
By james harmon, November 20, 2010 @ 3:01 pm

I have a 1936 206 head, I got mistakenly thinking it was a 216 head, don’t know if it will fit, is in very good shape, no cracks, and has been coated with preservativi. I need $100 for it
By Tom, November 20, 2010 @ 10:06 pm

Tony,
A friend here in Michigan has seen your post for a ’37 cylinder head and just contacted me to say he has a complete engine, bellhousing and trans out of a ’37 passenger car. If this might help you contact me at theboss@stoveboltengineco.com and I’ll get you contact info.
Tom

By Ryan, September 28, 2010 @ 4:22 pm

I have a 1958 Chevy pickup with a 235. Do you offer a gasket kit and upgraded cam for that engine? If not do you know where I can get one. I will be purchasing some parts from you guys (intake, headers, etc.) and was wondering if you supply a gasket kit and cam.

By Tom, September 28, 2010 @ 11:44 pm

Yes, we have a gasket kit and cam. Call to discuss details of your engine build.

By jim henry, September 28, 2010 @ 11:46 am

will your motor mounts for the trucks work on my 50 bel air for the 292, also do have the adapter to hook up to my 1950 power glide

By ray, September 28, 2010 @ 12:42 am

Another newbie here. I am looking to put a 250 in a 48 chevy areosedan. Is it possible to use the original crossmember but installing your motor mount kit? Also can i get that classic strait six sound out of the 250?

By Tom, September 28, 2010 @ 8:36 am

Don’t know about the cross member but for sure if you run a completely seperated dual exhaust you can get the classic 6 cylinder sound. You can call Buffalo Enterprises for a possible answer to your cross member question. (360-652-7684 in WA)

By jim henry, September 26, 2010 @ 4:25 pm

am looking for a 292 for my 50 Bel Air,are the ones made in Mexico the same quality as the US made ones, also how far can you bore them out to?

By Tom, September 26, 2010 @ 8:25 pm

The “Mexican” 292 is the same as the last ones made in the U.S.A. in 1986. Only Genreal Motors knows the quality comparison, but I have never heard any neagtivity about the Mexican built 292 engines.

By chris talbot, September 24, 2010 @ 11:34 am

newbie here, trying to put a 292 into a 52 gmc. not sure what motor mounts to use. as the motor and tranny are hanging in the truck it looks like 1. im going to have to cut into the front crossmember so it clears the firewall (but then theres no room for the fan). or 2. cut the firewall and slide the motor back. i hate to reinvent the wheel here, any suggestions before i buy your motor mounts? thanks, chris

By Tom, September 24, 2010 @ 4:48 pm

Chris,
You can use our motor mounts #55-1108 ($140.00 + shipping)
You will need to move the radiator forward.
Tom

By 54Delray, September 23, 2010 @ 4:04 pm

I have a couple of questions for you before I place an order. I’m putting a 292 into a ’54 Chevy sedan with a stock front end, and manual trans. I would like to run your headers on it, will they work with a Clifford ram flow intake, and will there be any interfernce that you know of with the emergency brake linkage etc. in the engine bay? I’m also planning on purchasing your engine mounts but just want to check before ordering. I am a complete novice, so any info you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

By Bruce, September 23, 2010 @ 10:06 pm

Yes, the Clifford intake will work our headers. But BE SURE the Clifford Manifold is a water heated version. (see tech tip on water heating) The Clifford Manifold is particularly sensitive to not being heated no matter what state you are in and no matter what time of year.
- By 54Delray, September 24, 2010 @ 1:48 am
  
  Awesome, thanks, I’ll be placing my order soon! I was talking on Facebook with a guy from Porter mufflers, I had been thinking thats what I would run and he said thats what you are using on your ’39 Suburban. I think they will have a great sound. Thanks again!
  - By Tom, September 25, 2010 @ 9:08 am
    
    We are planning to make a recording of the ’39 Suburban with the Porter mufflers on it and post it on our website yet this fall. We also found that people using Porters have made videos and posted them on YouTube …you might want to check that out.
    - By Brianv, November 21, 2010 @ 10:41 am
      
      ok mr tom i got 350 holley carburator a camshaft of 3000 rpm to 7500 rpm a racing piston mi ccamera whit racing valves nothing else what you recomenmi please i need more power to go on mud if you need some videos i can add you by facebook so you know what i am talking about
      - By Tom, November 22, 2010 @ 1:55 pm
        
        Brian,
        1- You definitely need a four barrel and I recommend 500 – 600 CFM.
        2- You should plan on using a “lump port” head.
        3- Please send pictures of your intake and headers.
        Tom
By BOB KELLY, November 27, 2010 @ 7:47 am

TOM:

I HAVE A 1970 292 WITH A FRESH REMAN WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR POWER ADD ONS FOR-HI PERF STREET?

PLEASE AND THANK YOU,

BOB KELLY
GERMANTOWN,TN
901-212-4632
- By Tom, December 6, 2010 @ 4:20 pm
  
  Bob,
  A small four barrel (and manifold), dual exhaust and our marine camshaft will bring you up to about 200 H.P.
  Tom
By terry, March 29, 2011 @ 6:43 pm

I have been researching alot here in the last few months and I am going to build a hot rod 250 to put in my 70 chevelle. I want to bring the compression ratio up but I do not know alot about inline performance. Which would be the best to do, buy forged pistons, get 307 regular pistons to up the ratio, or shave the head and deck the block. All info is encouraged.
- By Tom, March 30, 2011 @ 10:37 pm
  
  I would do all three but the most effective part is to use the 307 pistons, then cut the head (.040″?) and maybe deck the block (.010″?) after you check it with the 307 pistons.
  - By terry, March 31, 2011 @ 10:03 pm
    
    Thanks. After I get the body all done I am sure I will need some more help and I will be hitting your catalog to buy some parts. I am going to do it right, I am a young guy but I love inline sixes. My dad put sixes in every vehicle he had when I was growing up. I like to be different and I can’t wait to get it on the road.

Specializing in GM 6 Cylinder High Performance Parts

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